2011 Bonded Crêpe Sculptural Great Coat
IT 46 - 36 Chest - S: Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M/L.
Burberry Prorsum sculptural coat from A/W 2011-2012. VIP sample in brand new condition with minor storage wear. Made in Italy. RRP: £2195
Burberry Prorsum's A/W 2011-2012 collection had no distinct theme. Christopher Bailey sought to explore the garments most representative of Burberry's outdoors heritage: Military outerwear. Bailey stated: 'As a nation, we have this obsession with the weather, and I wanted to explore that, and to celebrate the coat.' With Burberry's heritage-driven visual language as the starting point, Bailey completely reinvented classic styles by experimenting with proportions and fabrics. In our view, this resulted in some of his most interesting creations for men. Tim Blanks writes:
'[Bailey] decided on a coat for all seasons as his theme for Fall 2011, and that's exactly what he offered. [...] The Main Event was The Coat in weights that were variously suitable for rain or wind or snow. Here's testament to focus—just as with Bailey's aviator jacket collection last Fall, almost every single coat was an object of lust.'
This handsome coat has a fitted, sharply-tailored cut with dramatic curved sleeves and a contoured waist. Its design is inspired by a 1910s type of great coat known as the 'British Warm'. The closely positioned 8-button closure is complemented by a strong peak lapel, and the shoulders are decorated with reversed epaulettes. The back is finished with a large martingale and sharply executed darts. Still, this piece is as old-school as it is futuristic. Unlike traditional great coats made from melton wool, the coat is realised in a completely unique fabric that features fine silk/viscose crêpe bonded to thick neoprene. The precious crêpe exterior has been heat-treated and shrunk to create a beautiful grainy surface, while the neoprene foam backing gives an armor-like drape to the fabric. This spectacular material is like nothing we have ever seen, and its robust body gives a completely architectural appearance to the three-dimensional silhouette.
While being supremely tailored, the coat's finishing is exceptional as we have come to expect from Burberry Prorsum. The season's signature thick luggage stitching encases most seams and buttons, resulting in a subtle geometrical play against the strong lines of the cut. The tonal buttons are made from antique resin and feature subtle Burberry Prorsum engravings across the edges. The collar can be kept up with an additional button, and features military-inspired triangular topstitching on its underside. The edges of the lapels are beautifully hand-sewn. As mentioned earlier, the sleeves have an interesting three-piece construction that enhances their sculptural curved shape. The interior is fully lined in gold jacquard sateen on the body and white pinstriped sateen on the sleeves. The lining is expertly hand-attached on the shoulders and hems, while the darted construction of the exterior is precisely echoed to optimise movement. The neck features Prorsum's signature hanging loop chain.
This stand-out piece successfully combines refined classicism with avant-garde experimentation. While making a strong and directional statement, its timeless aesthetic and high quality ensure that it will become a wardrobe staple for years to come.