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2009 Overdyed Quilted Voile Classic Bomber Jacket

Raf Simons

2009 Overdyed Quilted Voile Classic Bomber Jacket

£815.00

Size 48 (oversized): Best for any size between an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS to an IT 52 - 42 Chest - L. This piece could also be worn by women.

Raf Simons MA-1 bomber jacket from S/S 2009. In excellent used condition; minor signs of wear on lining have been professionally restored. Made in Belgium. 

Since Raf Simons's early years as a fashion designer certain garments have become hallmarks of the brand, acting as timeless points of reference across his collections. MA-1 bomber jackets in particular have become some of his most coveted garments, with a tremendous impact on contemporary trends through collections such as S/S 2000 'Summa Cum Laude', A/W 2000 'Confusion' and A/W 2001 'Riot Riot Riot'. It could be argued that the oversized silhouette of those pieces (which were manufactured by military surplus companies and superficially modified by Simons) epitomised the youth culture-inspired look that has dominated contemporary streetwear. This rare jacket is part of the subsequent S/S 2009 collection, but its shape and silhouette bear a close resemblance to the earlier bomber jackets Simons is known for. 

We find this piece to be very interesting in its combination of two seemingly disparate influences: On the one hand, the rugged aesthetic and oversized silhouette instantly remind us of Simons's landmark streetwear collections, and particularly S/S 2000 'Summa Cum Laude and S/S 2003 'Consumed'. On the other, however, its execution and finishing demonstrate a level of artful experimentation that was much more prominent in Raf's later years and S/S 2009 in particular. This is beautifully demonstrated by the intricate fabric: On a first impression it appears to be rough canvas, but actually consists of fine cotton voile that has been bonded to lightweight foam, quilted and then overdyed black. The result is a soft, slightly cushioned fabric with pronounced texture variations and an aggressive militaristic undertone.

The jacket has an oversized silhouette with dropped shoulders and a voluminous body. The fabric's unstructured drape emphasises the jacket's generous proportions, producing a very nonchalant look. The jacket's detailing closely follows the traditional MA-1 design, with knit inserts on the short collar, waistline and cuffs. There are two diagonal side pockets with large welts and a classic cargo pocket on the left arm. All zippers have a gunmetal finish that complements the dark aesthetic of the piece. The interior is constructed like Simons's blazers, with a smooth viscose sateen lining and two pockets. Overall, all seams are precisely executed throughout and demonstrate the jacket's quality.

A quintessential Raf Simons piece, this bomber jacket is a versatile everyday garment that will be easy to wear in a variety of casual outfits. At the same time, its unique fabrication, directional silhouette and rich history set it apart from other bomber jackets, many of which were inspired by Simons in the first place.


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