2008 'Vocal' Frock Coat with Pleated Waist and Herringbone details
Size XS: Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Ann Demeulemeester 'Vocal' frock coat from A/W 2008-2009. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: $2985 (£1825)
Ann Demeulemeester's A/W 2008-2009 collection is widely recognised as one of her most celebrated moments and as one of the most iconic menswear collections of the past decade. The season's iconic hints of colour and pronounced textures demonstrated how profoundly romantic the Ann Demeulemeester man can be, while maintaining his signature unkempt elegance. This coat is quintessential Demeulemeester in its astounding beauty and meticulous attention to detail. The photos fail to demonstrate its exquisite fabrics and construction, or its amazing movement when worn.
The cut of this piece combines Demeulemeester's nonchalant and easy drape on the body with form-fitting sleeves and a tapered waist, resulting in a relaxed yet sharp silhouette. Stylistically, the coat tastefully borrows elements from mid-19th century frock coats, such as a slanted closure and an ornate back construction. On the front, five horn buttons reach below the stand-up collar and result in a somewhat austere look when closed; however, the front opens to reveal the double-layered construction of the lapel, with trims of contrasting material placed asymmetrically on the inner sides. The back features elegant curvilinear seams that follow the lines of the body and an ornate vent with six fixed knife pleats that produce elongated drapes along the lower back. The vent expands gracefully when the wearer moves for a beautiful and dramatic effect.
The coat's spectacular design is further enhanced by an impressive and diverse selection of fabrics that are quintessential Demeulemeester, with very pleasant textures that will age well over time. The outer is a navy wool with a loose weave that gives it a soft, stretchy texture. The fabric has been washed after being woven, resulting in a lightly faded vintage finish. A contrasting fabric made of 54% wool, 25% cotton and 21% linen can be found on the lapels, pocket flaps and cuffs. Its herringbone weave’s combination of black and silver threads gives it a beautiful fleecy texture and a dull luster.
Like most Ann Demeulemeester garments, the coat features an abundance of interesting details. The buttoned pockets on the front have a double-layered design that subtly reveals the contrasting herringbone trim. Similarly, the cuffs are lined in the same material, making them very pleasant to touch. The collar has Demeulemeester's signature subtly rectangular shape, and can stand or fold down. The shoulders have an elegant roped construction that produces a subtle peak at the top of the sleeve cap. Finally, the interior features two buttoned welt pockets and is fully lined in Ann's signature brushed cotton on the body, and smooth viscose/acetate on the sleeves.
Overall, this unique garment is a wonderful manifestation of Demeulemeester's beautiful vision. Its beautiful fabrics and idiosyncratic construction justify its rather high original value, and will make it an absolutely stand-out piece in any wardrobe.