2008 Embroidered Peplum Peacoat
IT 44 (slightly oversized): Best for a Women's UK 10/US 6, a UK 12/US 8 or a slim UK 14/US 10.
Burberry Prorsum peacoat from A/W 2008-2009. In good used condition with tags and replacement buttons; minor pilling. Made in Italy. RRP: £1995
Christopher Bailey's A/W 2008-2009 collection for Burberry Prorsum was inspired by the architectural plays of proportion found in couture. Intricate outerwear was at the forefront, however the silhouettes maintained a casual ease. The designer described the coveted collection as 'nostalgic with rich elegant textures, effortless silhouettes and faded sombre hues.' Sarah Mower writes:
'"I've been looking at L.S. Lowry," Bailey explained, citing the Northern English painter of industrial landscapes and "matchstick" people. "He painted all these ladies walking around in funny hats and coats." [...] He began by balancing a short silhouette (coats came curved into the hem) over long, skinny legs walking on high platforms, then worked in his great-looking bootlegs with boyish jackets in menswear fabrics. As the collection segued to the luxury end, the handcrafted coats became ever more complex and textured: in multi-pleated, knotted strips of organza; pieces of fox fur cut out and re-appliquéd; piled-up shredded leaves of chiffon.' (our emphasis)
This beautiful peacoat encapsulates the season's 'everyday couture' sentiment. The cut is narrow on the upper body with strong shoulders, while a dramatic peplum waist produces an easy and flattering A-line silhouette. The sleeves are cropped and finished with wide pleats. The peacoat's iconic shape is given a luxurious touch by its spectacular materials: Leaf-shaped embroidery is applied in horizontal stripes, resulting in an elaborate grainy appearance with a soft three-dimensional texture that has to be seen to be believed. The front closes with ten closely-positioned buttons and the waist features two slit pockets.
The piece has an abundance of well thought-out details that demonstrate Christopher Bailey's commitment to traditional craftsmanship. Despite its relaxed fit, the tailoring is flawless: contoured panels produce an impressive three-dimensional shape, which is further accentuated by sharp pleats. The upper back has ornate curved seams, followed by an architectural pleat on the waist. The complicated structure of the exterior is precisely echoed in the construction of the lining, enhancing the refined silhouette. The neck features Burberry's signature hook-and-eye closure and is framed by chunky epaulettes. The buttons are made from glazed buffalo horn with luxurious metal inserts. A smooth jacquard sateen with Burberry's Equestrian Knight lines the interior, which is hand-finished with silk piping.
Effortlessly luxurious and quintessentially Prorsum, this elegant peacoat demonstrates Christopher Bailey's womenswear at its finest. While looking spectacular, its versatile silhouette makes it an everyday staple.