2007 Virgin Wool Aviator Blouson with Lamb Fur Collar
Size S: Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Ann Demeulemeester aviator blouson from A/W 2007-2008. In excellent used condition. Made in Portugal. RRP: £1325
Described by Tim Blanks as 'striking a perfect balance between power and vulnerability', A/W 2007-2008 was one of Ann Demeulemeester's most coveted and commercially successful seasons. Many of the signature pieces it presented laid the aesthetic groundwork for the collections that followed in the next two years, a period that is often seen as Demeulemeester's most prolific. In a muted palette of black, white and dark gray, the collection combined dramatic dandyism with the aggression of contemporary streetwear. Curly lamb fur was used extensively for statement outerwear. This iconic aviator blouson perfectly encapsulates the collection's directional aesthetic, with no compromises in any aspect of its luxurious construction.
Fist of all, the cut of this piece combines Demeulemeester's loose tailoring with a form-fitting tapered silhouette that gives precision to the easy cut. The front has a double zip closure with four pockets and a removable oversized Mongolian sheep fur collar. Its oversized shape produces a dramatic appearance where the collar gently swallows the neck when the jacket is closed, or folds to cover the shoulders when open. The fur can be removed to reveal a more subtle shirt-like collar. The narrow waist features long ribbed knit panels. The cuffs are finished with similar ribbing in an oversized length that can be turned up. The blouson’s military origins are subtly echoed in the buttoned flap that secures the zipper and the positioning of the welt pockets, with two placed vertically on the chest and two placed diagonally on the waist.
The beautiful cut of the jacket is further elevated by an impressive and diverse selection of fabrics with very pleasant textures that will age well over time. The outer is a deep black virgin wool twill with a loose weave that makes it exceptionally soft and stretchy. A brushed finish produces a vintage appearance and a fleecy texture that obscures the diagonal lines of its twill weave. A fully padded interior makes the jacket pleasant to touch and highly insulating; when when worn the blouson feels like a warm and soft duvet. This feeling is further enhanced by the ribbed cuffs. As their generous length allows them to reach well below the palms when unfolded, their thick virgin wool knit produces an intimate glove-like sensation.
Furthermore, the detailing of this piece is phenomenal and captures Demeulemeester's thoughtful commitment to good design. The interior is fully lined in the designer's signature brushed cotton, and smooth viscose/acetate on the sleeves. An accordion-shaped gusset is placed at the armpits that allows for the comfortable lifting of the arms, without compromising on the garment’s fitted silhouette. The lining has also been adapted for movement through the placement of pleats on the top and bottom of the back, allowing for increased movement on the part that bears the tension of stretching the arms forward. In our view, there’s something empowering about a sharp garment that still allows the wearer to move with little restriction.
Overall, this is a beautiful casual piece from a period of Ann Demeulemeester's work that is seen by many as her best. This piece is one of our favourites, as it combines a statement design (that can look less exaggerated by removing the fur collar) with tactilely pleasing materials and considerable attention to detail. In short, it is a garment that not only looks great but also feels amazing when worn, thus demonstrating Demeulemeester's elegantly disheveled vision at its best.