Helmut Lang biker trousers with zippers from A/W 2005-2006. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
The A/W 2005-2006 collection is an obscure chapter of Helmut Lang's career, presented without a runway show and devoid of any press coverage. Very little is known about its conditions of production; Did Lang fully participate in its design before his January 2005 departure or was it conceived by the brand's design team? The few records that have come to our attention suggest that the collection introduced novel elements to Helmut Lang menswear, while remaining consistent with the aesthetic of the brand. New materials were developed, including a ribbed knit bound with nappa leather and tailoring wools that were resin-coated and heat-pressed. Outerwear inspired by mid-century despatch coats featured asymmetric closures, irregularly placed pockets and metal stud details. Although the collection's production was extremely limited, certain loyal Helmut Lang buyers did follow up with orders and thus traces of the collection became available.
These directional trousers are based on Lang's iconic designs from the A/W 1999 collection. Taking his signature streetwear to a new level of sophistication, the designer has drawn inspiration from workwear and biker garments to create a truly striking piece. First of all, the trousers are crafted from stretch cotton twill that has been washed and brushed for a soft, broken-in finish with minor colour variations. The fabric's military drab colour complements the aggressive aesthetic of the trousers. The silhouette is fitted with a narrow straight leg and a three-dimensional shape that follows the lines of the body.
An abundance of quintessentially Lang details add sophistication and intricacy to the design. The front closes with a button fly and has zipped welt pockets, while the back has inverted single-welt pockets. The knee area features an articulated back and six precise pleats that create an aggressive element while optimising movement. Most interestingly, the hems are finished with a rectangular zipped cargo pocket and double ankle zippers -an A/W 1999 signature- that look spectacular when left open. Chunky militaristic belt loops (some of which feature buttonholes) complete the iconic piece.
Moreover, the trousers are beautifully constructed with tremendous attention to detail. The fly buttons are made from tonal resin and are engraved with the HL logo. Likewise, all zippers are Swiss-made Riri M6. Upon examining the interior, we can see that white cotton has been used for the pockets and as seam binding around the seat and hems, where the edges of the zippers have been bound to protect the wearer's skin. Finally, Lang's signature cotton pulls allow for the trousers to be hung.
A much-coveted design from one of Lang's most memorable periods, these iconic trousers demonstrate the timeless relevance of his vision, which has been reproduced numerous times by younger designers but never fully replicated. Their spectacular details and excellent craftsmanship will undoubtedly make them one of your most cherished garments for years to come.
