39 Chest/15,5 Neck: Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang evening shirt from S/S 2005. In brand new condition with tags, replacement buttons and collar stays. Made in Italy. RRP:$475 (£284)
S/S 2005 was Helmut Lang's final runway presentation before label owners Prada Group discontinued the label and sold its rights to Link Theory Holdings, a subsidiary of Fast Retailing Co. Following the eclectic approach of A/W '04, the collection combined many of Lang's classic 90s elements with the subculture-inspired narrative of his later years. The look was decidedly post-minimalist, with an emphasis on clean surfaces and subtle details that took the form of nautical and fishing equipment. In the showroom, buyers noted that fabrics were at the collection's forefront, demonstrated in their innovative weaves and surface treatments. This shirt is a prime example of the exquisite refinement of Lang's final years: Besides its exceptional construction, it is realised in one of the most unique shirting fabrics we have encountered.
The shirt has a very narrow cut that was rarely seen in Lang's shirting. Slim shoulders, elongated sleeves and a tapered waist closely follow the lines of the body. The sleeves are finished with minimalist french cuffs that are meant to be left unfolded, while the collar has a strong trim shape. The sharp silhouette is given depth by the shirt's one-of-a-kind fabric. Made from finely woven cotton, the deep black fabric has an intricate basketweave that is interrupted by a dropped pinstripe. This results in a slightly translucent finish that makes a subtle yet sensual statement. A material that is quintessential Helmut Lang, it is crisp and lightweight and feels extremely luxurious.
Helmut Lang shirts were largely inspired by traditional workwear and this piece features several classic details. A rectangular patch pocket adorns the chest and the sleeves have a two-piece construction that enhances the structured look. Still, a level of minimalist modernity is maintained though the strong rectangular shape of the cuffs, and the large dark grey mother of pearl buttons. Likewise, the cuff buttons are handmade from the same buttons as the front. Each cuff has two long pleats, while side pleats shape the back. Overall, the finishing is superb, with flat fell finishing on the interior that protects seams from fraying.
This piece is a splendid garment from one of Lang's most underappreciated collections. Its razor-sharp aesthetic set it apart from ordinary shirts, while the unique fabric gives it a subtly luxurious touch that is simultaneously classic and avant-garde. Pair it with the 2002 virgin wool overcoat for a sober and uncompromising look.
