2004 Wool/Cotton Hand-tailored Blazer Jacket with Gussets
IT 52: Best for an IT 50 - 40 chest - M.
Carol Christian Poell blazer jacket from A/W 2004-2005 'Instant'. In excellent used condition; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy. RRP: £1880
Poell's Instant offered an abstract form of commentary on the very cognitive nature of instant moments. The presentation at Lift Ecru explains: 'When instants are created, the enormous amount of research and experiments will never be exposed to the public and is kept a secret, other than for those who work on it.' This idea can be straightforwardly connected to the perception of handmade garments. A blazer that took days to manufacture may instantly look identical to one from H&M; however it is the long-term efforts put in its production that makes it valuable and worthy of our attention. Perhaps as a way of encapsulating this sentiment, this blazer is almost entirely handmade, and is technically superior to any other CCP piece we have ever handled.
The cut is quintessential CCP; slim with beautiful pagoda-shaped shoulders, a narrow body, slim sleeves and extremely elongated proportions. The fabric is ELEFANT/10, a robust virgin wool/cotton blend with a soft brushed texture and a faint luster. Both front closure and sleeve cuffs feature a single button, while the back has a double vent. The armpits feature Poell's signature articulated gussets that allow for increased movement without compromising on the sharp cut. The interior features three pockets (one concealed) and is fully lined in cupro Bemberg. Black fabric lines the body and dark grey with black and yellow stripes lines the sleeves.
The quality of this piece is absolutely spectacular; The front is constructed using full floating horsehair canvassing (a feature used in highest quality tailoring) that gives it an elegant structured drape. The stitching that attaches the canvas to the outer fabric is executed in contrasting white thread, which amply demonstrates the craftsman's absolute precision. Most edges (eg. lapel, collar, pocket flaps and cuffs) feature pick-stitching done by hand to an extremely high standard. The buttonholes are hand-stitched. The undercollar features a felt panel that is decorated with ornate geometrical topstitching. Contrasting piping follows the elaborate lines of the interior lining, which is almost entirely attached by hand. Finally, the CCP label on the chest is hand-sewn.
Overall, this is an exemplary garment with an attention to detail that is seldom seen in today's designer market, even by Carol Christian Poell's high standards. A piece that feels incredible when worn but could also be appreciated in a museum display.