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2004 Vintage Twill Biker Vest with Bondage Straps

Helmut Lang

2004 Vintage Twill Biker Vest with Bondage Straps

£415.00

IT 52 - 42 Chest - L: Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.

Helmut Lang bondage biker vest from S/S 2004. In brand new condition with tags. Made in Italy. RRP: ¥99,750 ($1075)

S/S 2004 is one of Helmut Lang's most famous seasons and many of its captivating designs are now part of modern fashion history. One of the collection's strongest themes was the' 'iridescent color' and 'lightness of structure' of dragonflies. Lang's typical sharp silhouettes were intensified by abstracted shapes, elastic straps, cut-outs and unexpected splashes of reflective materials. The collection's iconic biker jackets are some of the most coveted pieces from Lang's final years, and have been a source of inspiration for many of today's avant-garde and mainstream fashion designers. Stylistically, they combine the post-minimalist deconstruction of Lang's later seasons with punk and military-inspired elements.

This handsome vest demonstrates many of the legendary season's iconic features, such as Lang's distinctive bondage straps on the lower waistoversize hardware and an elaborately detailed construction. The front has an asymmetrical zip closure with an oversized collar that can stand up or be secured to the body with chunky press studs. There are three diagonal zipped pockets and a single flap pocket. A heavy and substantial garment, the vest is made from high-quality vintage cotton twill that has been overdyed for a deep black colour with minor texture variations. The cut is form-fitting with a slightly shorter back that results in a sharp and aggressive silhouette. Besides looking great on its own, the vest could also be worn over a longer coat for a dramatic layered look (pictured).

An abundance of interesting details further demonstrates the sophistication of Lang's output during his final years as a designer. A level of polished minimalism is maintained through the use of luxurious Lampo zippers with a matte gunmetal finish that complements the dark aesthetic of the piece. At the same time, the polished silver finish of the logo-engraved press studs adds graphic detail. The heavyweight zippers are finished with chunky military pulls and grosgrain tape tabs. The upper back has a 'bi-swing' layered construction inspired by authentic biker jackets. Likewise, the waist and sides of the piece are beautifully crafted with intricately shaped geometrical panels that create a slightly three-dimensional shape that echoes the contours of the body. The interior is fully lined in brushed cotton and has two large pockets, one of which is secured by velcro. 

Helmut Lang's output during his fashion career's final years produced a series of enticing garments that demonstrated his sheer talent and groundbreaking vision. The bondage-inspired detailing from S/S 2004 is now remembered as one of his most iconic touches and this rare vest could be part of someone's personal wardrobe as much as it could be displayed in a modern art museum.


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