Size IT 42: Best for an IT44 - 34 Chest - XS, or any size between a Women'sUK 12/US 8 and aUK 8/US 4.
Helmut Lang bomber jacket with bondage straps from S/S 2004. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.
S/S 2004 is one of Helmut Lang's most acclaimed and celebrated seasons. Purist and idiosyncratic, its aesthetic is now now seen as one of 21st century fashion's defining moments. Citing the 'iridescent color' and 'lightness of structure' of dragonflies as inspiration, Lang created simple athletic ensembles that were intensified by captivating abstracted shapes, elastic straps, cut-out sections and unexpected flourishes of saturated colour. Minimalist technical jerseys, cotton canvas and patent leather formed the majority of the collection, with bursts of pearlescent taffetas creating striking aesthetic mutations.
Among its many iconic outerwear offerings, S/S 2004 featured a variety of 'bondage bomber' jackets similar to the designs Lang presented for his A/W 2003 collection (pictured). The idiosyncratic aesthetic of the 2003 versions was maintained in full force, but realised in a variety of unconventional materials better suited for spring/summer. This piece is crafted from dark grey extrafine cotton poplin that has been bonded with a thin layer of plastic on its underside. The fabric's high thread count lends it a soft, lustrous and exceptionally smooth surface, while its bimaterial composition gives it structure and increased durability. Overall, it is a beautiful material at the perfect intersection between luxury and wearability.
The jacket has a streamlined design loosely based on classic MA-1 military jackets. The front has a zipper closure while the neckline, waistband and cuffs are finished with soft ribbed knit inserts. The clean lines are interrupted by Helmut Lang's signature bondage straps: an X-shaped elastic piece encases the left elbow, a long self-fabric strap hangs on the lower back and the sleeves are finished with elastic cuff straps. This multitude of strapped elements creates an unexpectedly aggressive aesthetic that has become synonymous with Lang's final years. The absence of conspicuous pockets complements the trim silhouette of the piece, with a fitted body and narrow sleeves.
The jacket's finishing offers a pleasant demonstration of Lang's thoughtful attention to detail. The waist has zipped pockets on each side, placed discreetly along the side seams. The cuff straps are attached to the interior of the cuffs by buttons and can be left partially unbuttoned or removed. Likewise, the waist strap secures with D-rings and can be adjusted to hang visibly below the hem. Its precise horizontal stitches are visible from the exterior, creating a linear element that is unexpectedly decorative. The interior is fully lined in black cotton. Furthermore, all zippers are made by Riri and have a polished black coating.
To conclude, this much-coveted jacket is a testament to the enduring influence of Helmut Lang's streetwear. The designer's groundbreaking bondage detailing is one of his most distinctive touches, and has spawned a long list of imitators. The importance of this work is now starting to be recognised by fashion collectors and major contemporary art museums alike.
