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2004 Heavy Waxed Cotton Skinny Gimp Jeans

Raf Simons

2004 Heavy Waxed Cotton Skinny Gimp Jeans


Size 46 (unmarked): Best for a 30" or 29" waist.

Raf Simons waxed bondage jeans from A/W 2004-2004 'Waves'. In excellent used condition. Made in Belgium.

The A/W 2004 'Waves' collection was a bold step forward for Raf Simons menswear. On one hand there was sportswear inspired by contemporary Belgian youth: Nylon jackets, washed jeans, patterned sweaters and hooded parkas evoked images of high school backyards and local raves. On the other, an element of sinister dandyism was apparent in the form of long strong-shouldered outerwear paired with form-fitting fetish jumpsuits. Many the garments' proportions were distorted extensively to create entirely new silhouettes that revealed a new awareness of form for the designer. In the words of Jo Ann Furniss, 'the obsessive youth culture codes of [Simons's] past were turned into clothes that were purely about shape and form.' Peter De Potter explains the collection's conceptual basis:

'The collection explores the idea of conscious confinement and wilful enclosure. Again starting with the concept of an imaginary community outside of regulated society, the whole of the collection evokes the feeling of enlightenment and personal enrichment one can find in extreme but self-chosen isolation. The collection references at random various drop-out cultures that are conceived as likeminded tribes but when examined closely, are in fact gatherings of individuals seeking self-fulfilment through lonely practice. Wave cultures, cultures of rave waves and ocean waves. Eyes closed, alone with music, living only inside music, happily disappearing into the vortex of sounds and emotions. Arms wide open, alone with nature, taking to the sea, drifting away from the shore, fully realising the only options are drowning or surviving.'

These spectacular jeans capture the collection's darker side; based on classic 5-pocket jeans, their design has been reenvisioned with references to contemporary fetish styles and particularly rubber bondage (gimp) suits. The fly has been constructed without a placket, exposing an oversized zipper that creates a graphic and daring point of interest. A similar zipper can be found on the change pocket, while the waistband is devoid of belt loops for a streamlined finish. The aggressive look is complemented by the jeans' extremely form-fitting cut which results in a sharp second-skin silhouette. Similar designs also appeared in the S/S 2005 collection.

In addition to their interesting detailing and proportions, the trousers have a unique construction that truly sets them apart from typical jeans. First and foremost, the fabric is heavy cotton that has been traditionally wax-impregnated like classic English hunting outerwear. In addition to its water-resistant properties, the paraffin-based coating creates a matte finish with a waxy texture that will age beautifully over time. The interior is fully lined in black brushed cotton.

An exceptionally rare find, these directional jeans are a classic Raf Simons piece from his best period as a designer. Their unconventional finishing and striking shape will add a dramatic element to any casual outfit.

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