Size 25: Best for a 27" or 28" waist. Inseam length: 34,25".
Helmut Lang flared jeans with front pockets from S/S 2004. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
Denim was one of Helmut Lang's most popular interseasonal offerings. Fashion critics have widely acknowledged that his innovative approach was catalytic in the transformation of classic jeans to covetable, highly conceptual fashion items. When Prada Group acquired the label in 1999, the 'Helmut Lang Jeans' line was slowly discontinued in an effort to cultivate a more cohesive and upmarket brand image. This move confused many buyers and consumers and has in retrospect been described as catastrophic for the brand. At the same time, however, this transition marks a shift towards more idiosyncratic, limited edition seasonal designs.
These striking jeans from S/S 2004 epitomise the subtle reinvention that characterises Lang's denim creations. Like the vast majority of Helmut Lang jeans, the basis of the design is Levi's 1947 501XX model with its traditional five-pocket arrangement reinforced with metal rivets. In this instance, however, horizontal seams at the level of the thighs interrupt the front, forming two additional pockets that secure with chunky stud buttons. In my view, this detail epitomises Lang's design ethos; it is simultaneously understated and striking, and sets this piece completely apart from classic jeans.
The unconventional aesthetic of the piece is given another dimension by its fabrication. Lang has opted for black denim that has been washed and sanded extensively to achieve a charcoal grey colour with intense variations and whiskers that replicate the effects of prolonged wear. The aggressively artificial appearance of the fabric offsets -or, perhaps, contradicts- the resolute modernity of the design.
The jeans have Lang's 'Low Waist Boot Cut' silhouette which consists of a low rise, fitted seat, slim thigh and a wide straight leg. Their finishing is precise and thoughtful as we have come to expect from Helmut Lang jeans. The hardware has an antique silver finish and is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo, while the interior is flawlessly finished with mainly flat fell seams that ensure the jeans will be worn for years without fraying.
A testament to Lang's transformative approach, these jeans are as ambiguous and unconventional as when they were presented nearly 15 years ago. Their distinctive detailing and silhouette will make a bold statement that is very much of the moment. Strongly recommended.
