Helmut Lang jeans with waist pockets from A/W 2004-2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: $420 (£273)
A/W 2004-2005 is one of our favourite Helmut Lang seasons, merging the refined spirit of his 1990's collections with the intricately layered sophistication of his bondage years. An amalgamation of textures and materials referenced Lang's influential body of work; moleskin cotton, silk sateen, steel, coated buffalo leather, raw denim. The runway styling balanced precision with chaos, while the clothes subverted typical notions of luxury and streetwear. At the same time, covert details created complex narratives that gave considerable depth to each look.
Although they are marked 'Classic', there is nothing ordinary about these jeans: Large pouch pockets decorate the seat area: asymmetrically-shaped and irregularly hand-gathered to create exaggerated shapes, they distort the appearance of the classic 5-pocket design. These pockets were one of the collection's signature details and can be seen in jeans, trousers and skirts. The fabric is a soft raw denim -lighter than Lang's typical denim- with a small percentage of elastane that makes the jeans a pleasure to wear. It should be noted that the 'Classic' label often changed definition; in this instance the cut is slim and form-fitting, with a narrow straight leg. In our view this is the most flattering Helmut Lang jeans shape.
The front fly closes with five large buttons. Contrasting silver hardware engraved with the Helmut Lang logo complements the jeans' classic aesthetic. Like Lang's denim jackets, selected details such as the buttonholes are sewn with black instead of orange thread for a streamlined effect. The interior is flawlessly finished with flat fell seams that ensure the jeans will be worn for years without fraying. A red stitch gives subtle contrast to the outer side seam, revealed when the cuffs are turned up. Over time, the raw fabric will develop beautiful fades in accordance to the wearer's movements.
For this piece, the classic jean is given a sophisticated update that subverts its original design. Boldly styled yet versatile, they represent the timeless aesthetic of the Helmut Lang Jeans range.
