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2004 Classic Bondage Biker Jacket with Cuff Straps

Helmut Lang

2004 Classic Bondage Biker Jacket with Cuff Straps

£615.00

IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS: Can also fit a slim IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.

Helmut Lang bondage biker jacket from S/S 2004. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. 

'It's all lovely stuff in a lovely shop: sculpture by Louise Bourgeois in the window, words by Jenny Holzer LED-ing up the staircase. The clothes are my sort of thing, such as the motorbike jacket rendered in cotton, and T-shirts with "Tom of England" written backwards across the front.'
- Charlie Porter

S/S 2004 is one of Helmut Lang's most famous seasons and many of its captivating designs are now part of modern fashion history. One of the collection's strongest themes was the' 'iridescent color' and 'lightness of structure' of dragonflies. Lang's typical sharp silhouettes were intensified by abstracted shapes, elastic straps, cut-outs and unexpected splashes of reflective materials. The collection's iconic biker jackets are some of the most coveted pieces from Lang's final years, and have been a source of inspiration for many of today's avant-garde and mainstream fashion designers. Stylistically, they combine the post-minimalist deconstruction of Lang's later seasons with punk and military-inspired elements.

This piece is Lang's refined adaptation of the classic Perfecto jacket, and is one of the collection's quintessential designs. The front has an asymmetrical zip closure with an oversized collar that can stand up or secure to the body with chunky press studs. There are three diagonal zipped pockets and a single flap pocket. A belt with a heavy metal buckle, chunky snap buttons around the neckline and logo-engraved press studs add graphic detail to the aggressive design. The cut is form-fitting with slim sleeves and a slightly shorter back, resulting in a sharp masculine silhouette. Lang's signature elastic cuff straps complete the piece.  

A substantial garment, the jacket is constructed to an exceptional standard. The fabric is dense cotton twill that has been overdyed and tumble-washed for a slightly irregular texture that will develop beautiful variations over time. Most interestingly, the jacket's sides have an elaborate three-dimensional construction consisting of multiple geometrical panels. The armholes feature gussets decorated with metal eyelets, while the upper back has a 'bi-swing' construction: Both of these features allow for increased arm movement without compromising the design's sharp clean lines. A level of polished minimalism is maintained through the use of luxurious heavyweight Lampo zippers in polished silver, finished with chunky military pulls and grosgrain tape tabs. The interior is fully lined in brushed cotton and has two large pockets, one of which is secured by velcro. The sleeves are lined in a soft cupro/viscose blend.

A timelessly relevant creation, this jacket demonstrates Lang's ingenious appropriation of classic designs that are subtly transformed to create thoroughly modern and uncompromisingly sophisticated garments.


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