2004 Brushed Virgin Wool Blazer Jacket with Biker Sleeves
IT 40: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or a UK 10/US 8.
Helmut Lang tailored blazer with panelled details from A/W 2004-2005. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Italy. RRP: $1195 (£758)
A/W 2004 -Lang's final winter runway presentation- marks a subtle transition from the intricately layered unconventional aesthetic of the past seasons towards a more restrained elegance. Sarah Mower explains:
'The long-limbed stride of Helmut Lang's tribe is a uniquely confident forward march. From their elegant coats to the tips of their high stalking heels, his women go out to meet the real world with a conviction that leaves retro in the dust. [...] Pragmatism with a personal, cultured background: Now, that’s a beautiful sight in these days of skimpy fashion thinking.
When you buy into Lang's aesthetic, however, you're also complicit with his subtly coded subtexts. That could be the white lace edge on the brim of a thigh-high leather boot, under a short black dress with a suggestive frill of white petticoat. "Sort of a bit like an Austrian waitress, no?" the designer laughed, afterward.[...] But none of these references were overt. Lang is too mature, and too sure of his touch, to resort to a one-note "inspiration." [...] With its small details of delightfully irrational crazy-chic—like the pony-hair tail sprouting from the back of a pair of pumps—it qualified as a modernist high point of the season.' (our emphasis)
This directional blazer beautifully combines sartorial craftsmanship with abstract construction details inspired by biker garments. While the body is traditionally constructed for a precise tailored finish, the sleeves are intricately panelled to create an unconventional silhouette with articulated elbows. The proportions are also evocative of biker blousons due to the strong shoulderline, narrow elongated sleeves and short fitted body. The subtly aggressive design is given substance by the luxurious pure virgin wool fabric that has been brushed and overdyed, giving it a pronounced fleecy texture and a deep colour finish.
The most interesting aspect of this piece is undoubtedly the sleeves, where the typical two-piece pattern is omitted in favour of a completely three-dimensional construction. Three reinforced darts control the volume of the elbow area, while the interior seam is disrupted to form beautiful angular panels. The jacket's front has darts and a precisely canvassed construction that gives it an effortless structured drape. The undercollar features a wool felt insert while the cuffs have four buttons. The interior is fully lined in smooth 59% viscose/41% cupro blend and has a single buttoned pocket.
An interesting take on a classic form, this jacket is a beautiful demonstration of the eclectic mix of tradition and innovation that characterises Helmut Lang's timelessly sharp tailoring. While its avant-garde detailing makes it timelessly stylish, it is also very easy to style and will impress in formal outfits.