2004 Bonded Techno Mesh Laced Ankle Boots
Size 37,5 - UK 4,5 - US 6,5.
Helmut Lang laced ankle boots from A/W 2004-2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
A/W 2004 -Lang's final winter runway show- marks a subtle transition from the subculture-inspired layering of the past seasons towards a more restrained elegance. Sarah Mower explains:
'The long-limbed stride of Helmut Lang's tribe is a uniquely confident forward march. From their elegant coats to the tips of their high stalking heels, his women go out to meet the real world with a conviction that leaves retro in the dust. [...] Pragmatism with a personal, cultured background: Now, that’s a beautiful sight in these days of skimpy fashion thinking.
When you buy into Lang's aesthetic, however, you're also complicit with his subtly coded subtexts. That could be the white lace edge on the brim of a thigh-high leather boot, under a short black dress with a suggestive frill of white petticoat. "Sort of a bit like an Austrian waitress, no?" the designer laughed, afterward.[...] But none of these references were overt. Lang is too mature, and too sure of his touch, to resort to a one-note "inspiration." [...] With its small details of delightfully irrational crazy-chic—like the pony-hair tail sprouting from the back of a pair of pumps—it qualified as a modernist high point of the season.' (our emphasis)
These unique ankle boots were one of the collection's signature footwear pieces. It could be argued that their design exemplifies the 'covertly perverse luxury' of Lang's final years, expressed in their abstract detailing and groundbreaking materials. The shell is constructed from a padded mesh knit (a variation of which is more commonly found in technical backpacks) that has been bonded to a thin layer of neoprene on the interior. The material stretches softly to create a sharp silhouette that closely follows the lines of the foot. The pointed toebox is subtly complemented by a split seam going across the toe and vamp. Likewise, elastic laced detailing creates a delicately restrained 'wrapped' effect while adding a sensual point of interest. The back of the shaft is finished with a large metal pull hoop.
Like all Helmut Lang footwear, the boots are manufactured to a very high standard with considerable attention to detail. The laces are constructed from thick elastic material and shiny lurex that gives them a very toe and heel areas are reinforced to maintain the shape of the shoe. Likewise, the sole is traditionally constructed using polished leather and a solid metal stem for the heel. This uncommon feature allows for a very narrow heel structure without compromising on structure. The shaft is finished with chain stitching reminiscent of the construction of diving suits, while the interior is lined in a combination of suede, glove leather and neoprene.
With a directional design that is unmistakably Lang, these boots combine everyday ease with sophisticated detailing and avant-garde materials. While they were designed over a decade ago, their subversive elegance will complement any cutting edge outfit.