2004 Bondage Cafe Racer Jacket with Straps
IT 50 - 40 Chest - M: Can also fit a large IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang bondage biker jacket from S/S 2004. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
S/S 2004 is one of Helmut Lang's most famous seasons and many of its captivating designs are now part of modern fashion history. One of the collection's strongest themes was the' 'iridescent color' and 'lightness of structure' of dragonflies. Lang's typical sharp silhouettes were intensified by abstracted shapes, elastic straps, cut-outs and unexpected splashes of reflective materials. The collection's iconic biker jackets are some of the most coveted pieces from Lang's final years, and have been a source of inspiration for many of today's avant-garde and mainstream fashion designers. Stylistically, they combine the post-minimalist deconstruction of Lang's later seasons with punk and military-inspired elements.
The design is an appropriation of the classic cafe racer jacket from the 1940s that was popular among British bikers in the decades that followed. A true classic, the jacket features two aggressive chest slanted pockets with heavy zippers, while the neck has a short collar with an adjustable chunky press stud engraved with the Helmut Lang logo. The lower back is finished with Lang's signature grosgrain cotton straps, hanging well below the hem for the layered look that has become synonymous with the designer's bondage work. The narrow cuffs are finished with zippers. The streamlined design is complemented by the 'Strong Cotton' fabric, a robust twill that develops a beautiful patina over time. The cut is fitted with a tapered waist.
The jacket's construction and finishing are just as intriguing as the directional design. Antique gold hardware emphasizes the masculine aesthetic, while offering a subtle contrast to the deep black fabric. All zippers are heavyweight Lampo and feel very luxurious, with chunky military pulls and grosgrain tape tabs. Furthermore, a curvilinear flap runs along the zip to protect from the elements. The upper back features sharp geometrical panels and has an impressive 'bi-swing' construction that enables the sleeves to extend from the body; this way the arms can move freely without compromising on the sharp silhouette. The interior is fully lined in a textured brushed cotton and has two large pockets. The sleeves are lined in a soft cupro/viscose blend.
A timelessly directional piece, this jacket combines Lang's archetypal elegance with a vintage-inspired design that really makes it stand out. While S/S 2004 showcased many groundbreaking garments that are part of modern fashion history, this what we would imagine Lang himself to wear, only to look better with age.