2003 Vintage Jersey T-Shirt with Extended Back Hem
Size M: Best for any size between an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M and an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S. Can also be worn oversize by women sized between UK 14/US 10 and UK 10/US 6.
Helmut Lang deconstructed T-shirt with elongated back panel from S/S 2003. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
In my view, S/S 2003 was one of the most sophisticated moments in Helmut Lang's 21st century output. Drawing inspiration from a diverse variety of sources including 1990s clubwear, Vivianne Westwood's Seditionaries, technical surfing gear and traditional tailoring, Lang devised a complex yet aesthetically harmonious vision where radical deconstruction met uncompromising modernity. Many of the details that defined Lang's clubwear-cum-couture collections from the mid-1990s were present, highlighting his emphasis on long-term refinement rather than seasonal novelty. At the same time, a variety of new forms that came to define this phase of Lang's career were presented to critical acclaim. Lang and his team decided to name the collection 'The Next Wave'. Unfortunately most of the collection's designs were manufactured in very limited numbers, or not produced at all.
Following the collection's DIY-inspired approach, this top combines precise craftsmanship with a deconstructed, carefully dishevelled aesthetic. Its construction is similar to many Helmut Lang t-shirts from this period, featuring side seams that spiral towards the right to enhance the top's drape when it is worn. What sets it apart, however, is that an additional piece of fabric has been sewn on the back, extending below the hem to create a somewhat aggressive layered effect. Since the panel's placement is aligned with the spiral side seams, its shape follows their rightward direction. It thus falls off-centre, covering a part of the front side.
The fabric is a medium-weight cotton jersey that has been brushed and washed extensively to give it a pronounced vintage patina and a smooth fleecy texture. The aged finish of the material pleasantly complements the rugged character of the design. The crew neckline is finished with ribbed trim, while the edges of the back panel are left raw with pronounced curls. Finally, please note the perfectionist finishing of the neckline seam and positioning of the Helmut Lang label. Overall, it is evident that the quality of this piece is superior to that of most designer T-shirts.
Combining formal classicism with Helmut Lang's ambiguous explorations of form, this fantastic T-shirt demonstrates the wit and sophistication of Lang's final years before his departure from fashion. Strongly recommended.