2003 Soft Fleece Chesterfield Coat with Knit Sleeves and Cuff Straps
IT 46: Best for a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M, an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or a Women's UK 12/US 10.
Helmut Lang tailored bondage coat with knit details from A/W 2003-2004. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
A/W 2003 is seen by many as Helmut Lang's definitive 'bondage' collection. A diverse variety of inspirations -ranging from airforce uniforms and Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries to classic evening tailoring- were refined into a unique collection that combined subcultural aggression with refined sartorialism. The season's conceptually rich designs have become part of contemporary fashion history, influencing a wide range of designers in the process. Originally presented on the A/W 1993 runway, Lang's classic Chesterfield coat was released every season that followed in different fabrics (pictured: S/S 1994, 1999 and 2001). This 2003 version of the classic design is given an impressive update, featuring an abundance of avant-garde details that truly distinguish it from typical outerwear.
Featuring a classic concealed three-button closure, the coat is crafted from a thick polar fleece fabric with a soft, fluffy texture reminiscent of cashmere wool; its gently unstructured drape gives a softer edge to the sharp lines of the piece. Likewise, the sleeves are realised in virgin wool knit in a chunky rib stitch. Starting from the sleeve cap line, the pleasantly stretchy knit further complements the soft structure of the coat while creating a form-fitting shape. The coat's silhouette is narrow-shouldered with a semi-fitted body, while the sleeves are skinny and elongated. The cuffs feature Lang's signature elastic bondage cuff straps that can be removed.
The coat is constructed to a very high standard as we have come to expect from Helmut Lang tailoring. The concealed button placket is hand-finished with a separate lining. The collar's underside features a tonal felt panel that looks fantastic when the collar is kept up. The interior is fully lined in silky deep black viscose/PBT blend that feels very pleasant against the skin, while all pockets are lined in smooth cotton. The lining is attached by hand on the shoulders and hem, while its edges are adorned with sartorial pick stitching. The interior is finished with two buttoned pockets. Finally, the back features a short buttoned vent.
This sophisticated piece exemplifies Helmut Lang's subtle yet groundbreaking transformation of classic designs into highly conceptual runway pieces. While sporting a timelessly sharp silhouette, the coat's tactilely pleasant fabrics really set it apart and make for a beautiful piece that can be worn from day to night. Strongly recommended.