IT 48: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.
Helmut Lang bondage waterproof jacket from A/W 2003-2004. In excellent used condition with minor interior wear. Made in Italy.
A/W 2003 is seen by many as Helmut Lang's definitive 'bondage' collection. A diverse variety of inspirations -ranging from airforce uniforms and Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries to classic evening tailoring- were refined into a unique collection that combined subcultural aggression with refined sartorialism. The season's conceptually rich designs have become part of contemporary fashion history, influencing a wide range of designers in the process.
This beautiful jacket is an updated adaptation of Lang's classic hooded parka which was first shown for the A/W 1990 collection (pictured: A/W 2003 and 2004). In this instance, the 2003 collection's iconic militaristic detailing lends an aggressive edge to the streamlined design, while the uncompromising craftsmanship gives it a luxurious feel. The front has a heavy zipper closure that extends slightly below the hem, leading up to a large hood. A chunky adjustable strap can be used to tighten the waist, or it can be left loose to channel Lang's typical layered styling. The cuffs are finished with elastic bondage cuff straps that can be removed. The fabric is a finely woven polyester that has been resin coated to give it a soft, smooth texture and a lustrous surface.
Superb finishing and well-thought out detailing set this piece apart from typical sportswear. The stitching that secures the waist strap is visible across the back, creating a precisely engineered point of interest. Staying true to Lang's minimalist aesthetic, the piece features no visible pockets, although a closer inspection reveals that an abundance of storage compartments are present. On the exterior, a couture-esque concealed pocket can be found below the right armhole, becoming completely invisible when closed. On the interior we can find a buttoned pocket as well as the designer's typical military-inspired square patch pocket. The jacket is fully lined in contrasting off-white cotton on the body and a soft cupro/viscose blend on the sleeves. All zippers are Italian-made Lampo and have a dark oxidised finish that complements the clean finish of the piece.
Overall, this garment is one of the best examples of the avant-garde sportswear from Helmut Lang's final years, where subcultural aggression intersects with avant-garde finishing and luxurious fabrications. The result is a stunning piece that looks unexpectedly sharp for a windbreaker while maintaining the 'covertly perverse' visual language that characterises Lang's bondage designs. Strongly recommended.
