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2003 Raw Denim Slim Classic 1-Pocket Jacket with Asymmetric Leather Applications

Helmut Lang

2003 Raw Denim Slim Classic 1-Pocket Jacket with Asymmetric Leather Applications

£530.00

IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M: Can also fit an IT 36 - 46 Chest - S.

Helmut Lang raw denim and leather jacket with asymmetric applications from S/S 2003. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Italy.

In our view, S/S 2003 was one of the most sophisticated collections in Helmut Lang's career. Drawing inspiration from a diverse variety of sources ranging from 1990s clubwear, Seditionaries-style layering and technical surfing gear to traditional tailoring, he created a complex yet aesthetically harmonious world where radical deconstruction met luxe modernity. Many of the details that defined Lang's clubwear-cum-couture collections from the mid-1990s were present, highlighting his emphasis on long-term refinement rather than seasonal novelty. Unfortunately many of the collection's directional designs were manufactured in limited numbers, or not produced at all.

This jacket is one of the collection's most famous designs and, in our view, one of the most iconic denim garments in Helmut Lang's body of work. Its design exemplifies the confident subtlety that led to the characterisation of Lang as embodying 'the quiet avant-garde spirit' of contemporary fashion. The design is an adaptation of the designer's classic 1-pocket jacket, introduced in 1998: The construction of the classic 'trucker' jacket is masterfully reduced to form a cleaner look with minimal seams, featuring a single chest pocket shaped like the back pockets of jeans. Contrasting leather panels on the right sleeve, left waistband and undercollar create a directional colour block effect that is as sophisticated as it is visually striking. Heavily frayed raw edges on the collar and cuffs further complement the idiosyncratic beauty of the piece.

The cut is narrow with defined shoulders, a tapered body and narrow elongated sleeves. The jacket's sharp lines are given substance by the heavyweight raw denim which has a stiff drape and considerable body. Over time, the sculptural surface and clean appearance of the fabric will form beautiful fades in accordance to the wearer's movements. Likewise, the fine calf leather has been hammered and tumble washed to give it a soft texture with pronounced irregularities. 

The finishing of the jacket is supremely executed like all Helmut Lang denim garments. All hardware has a matte silver finish and is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo. Upon a closer inspection we can see that selected details such as the buttonholes are sewn with black instead of orange thread, complementing the well thought-out design. All seams are generally executed to a very high standard, and give an architectural precision to the jacket's clean construction. On the interior, precise flat-fell seams protect the jacket from undesirable fraying. The leather part of the sleeve is lined in black textured cotton. 

This jacket captures the essence of the designer's subtle yet subversive redefinition of contemporary menswear. Being in flawless unworn condition, we believe it can be appreciated both as a wearable garment and as a highly sophisticated piece of modern design. On such rare occasions, distinctions between fashion and high art seem entirely out-of-place. Indeed, this is a very special piece that is not to be missed. 


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