Helmut Lang skirt with strapped waist from S/S 2003. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
In my view, S/S 2003 was one of the most sophisticated moments in Helmut Lang's 21st century output. Drawing inspiration from a diverse variety of sources including 1990s clubwear, Vivianne Westwood's Seditionaries, technical surfing gear and traditional tailoring, Lang devised a complex yet aesthetically harmonious vision where radical deconstruction met uncompromising modernity. Many of the details that defined Lang's clubwear-cum-couture collections from the mid-1990s were present, highlighting his emphasis on long-term refinement rather than seasonal novelty. At the same time, a variety of new forms that came to define this phase of Lang's career were presented to critical acclaim. Lang and his team decided to name the collection 'The Next Wave'. Unfortunately most of the collection's designs were manufactured in very limited numbers, or not produced at all.
Streamlined yet striking, this skirt has an unconventional construction with a two-piece front where the right side overlaps asymmetrically over the left. A wide elastic strap (similar to the details seen on Lang's 'bondage' garments) traverses above the waist and secures with a metal adjuster. When the piece is worn, the strap's forms a detached linear shape that was one of the S/S 2003 collection's most iconic touches. The piece is crafted from raw denim in a deep indigo hue. The fabric's casual associations create an interesting juxtaposition with the skirt's highly conceptual aesthetic. Similar designs can be seen in the permanent collection of New York's Met Museum (pictured).
The construction of this piece is of a high standard as it is to be expected from Lang. The black bondage belt is made from two thinner pieces of elastic tape, sewn together with a zig-zag stitch to prolong the structural integrity and flexibility of the material. A thinner vertical loop can be used to secure the belt's edge when worn. The front can be partially zipped open and the back is shaped with two darts. The metal buckle adjuster has a luxurious polished silver finish. The interior is beautifully finished with black binding.
Combining formal classicism with a delicate exploration of form, this directional skirt demonstrates the wit and sophistication of Lang's final years before his departure from fashion.
