Size IT 44 (oversize): Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M, an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S, a Women's UK 14/US 10 or a UK 12/US 8.
Helmut Lang tailored coat from A/W 2003-2004. In excellent used condition; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy. RRP: $2650 (£1592)
A/W 2003 is seen by many as Helmut Lang's definitive 'bondage' collection. A diverse variety of inspirations -ranging from airforce uniforms and Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries to classic evening tailoring- were refined into a unique collection that combined subcultural aggression with refined sartorialism. The season's conceptually rich designs have become part of contemporary fashion history, influencing a wide range of designers in the process. That said, effortless simplicity maintains a key position in Lang's tailored designs, and the evolution of his work is manifested in subtle, elegant and often unexpected ways. The Chesterfield design is one of Lang's most iconic, re-issued every season for men and women since its introduction on the A/W 1993 runway (pictured: A/W 2003, S/S 2004 and S/S 2001). This rare 2003 version is realised in a fabric that is like nothing we have ever seen.
Although this piece is from the women's line, its style and sizing make it undeniably unisex. The cut is classic and flattering with sharp shoulders, a semi-fitted body and elongated sleeves. The fabric is a unique textured blend of 50% virgin wool and 50% nylon with a bouclé-esque structure that appears to have been heat pressed and then brushed for an awe-inspiring three-dimensional texture with pronounced variations and an elegant luster. Unlike the leopard-inspired pattern shown on the runway, the colour here is deep black. A radical and completely unique material, it represents Lang's fabric experimentation at its finest. The sharp clean lines of the streamlined design complement the visually arresting textures: The front has a concealed three-button closure, while the back has a short buttoned vent. The cuffs are finished with Lang's signature elastic bondage cuff straps that can be removed.
The quality of this piece is excellent, as to be expected from Helmut Lang's renown tailoring. The concealed button placket is hand-finished with a separate lining. The collar's underside features a hand-sewn felt panel that looks fantastic when the collar is kept up. The interior is fully lined in silky deep black viscose that feels pleasant against the skin, while all pockets are lined in smooth cotton. The lining is attached by hand on the shoulders and hem, while its edges are adorned with sartorial pick stitching. The interior is finished with two buttoned pockets.
This is a signature Helmut Lang garment with a timeless design and a truly astounding fabric. Helmut Lang's idiosyncratic approach to tailoring was conducive in transforming classic forms into sophisticated and refined runway pieces. The influence of his groundbreaking vision can be observed on numerous contemporary labels, from avant-garde pioneers like Phoebe Philo for Céline and Raf Simons for Jil Sander and Dior to brands like APC, COS and TopShop. This rare piece captures the essence of a very specific moment in time that is now revered and venerated; in our opinion, it could be part of someone's personal wardrobe as much as it belongs to the collection of a contemporary art museum.
