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2003 Heavy Overdyed Denim Deconstructed Jeans with Frayed Waist

Helmut Lang

2003 Heavy Overdyed Denim Deconstructed Jeans with Frayed Waist


Two sizes available:
Size 30: Best for a 30" or 31" waist. Inseam length: 33,25".
Size 32: Best for a 32" or 33" waist. Inseam length: 33,25".

Helmut Lang jeans with cut-off waistline from S/S 2003. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

In my view, S/S 2003 was one of the most sophisticated moments in Helmut Lang's 21st century output. Drawing inspiration from a diverse variety of sources including 1990s clubwear, Vivianne Westwood's Seditionaries, technical surfing gear and traditional tailoring, Lang devised a complex yet aesthetically harmonious vision where radical deconstruction met uncompromising modernity. Many of the details that defined Lang's clubwear-cum-couture collections from the mid-1990s were present, highlighting his emphasis on long-term refinement rather than seasonal novelty. At the same time, a variety of new forms that came to define this phase of Lang's career were presented to critical acclaim. Lang and his team decided to name the collection 'The Next Wave'. Unfortunately most of the collection's designs were manufactured in very limited numbers, or not produced at all.

Chanelling the collection's DIY-inspired approach, Lang has constructed these jeans without a waistband panel. Instead we have a conspicuously frayed waistline devoid of belt loops, evoking the appearance of jeans that have been cut. It should be noted that this piece predates the work of designers like Marques ' Almeida by almost a decade. Beyond this unusual feature the design is inspired by Levi's 1947 501XX model, featuring a traditional five-pocket arrangement reinforced with metal rivets. The fabric is heavyweight denim that has been overdyed black to achieve a deep colour. Natural wear has faded the fabric's edges to a dark grey hue that complements the aesthetic of the piece.

The jeans have Lang's typical 'Classic' cut which consists of a medium rise, fitted seat, fitted thigh and a narrow straight leg. The reward of this carefully considered pattern is a flattering silhouette that looks simultaneously effortless and sharp. Like all Helmut Lang denim, the finishing is of a very high standard. Tonal black hardware engraved with the Helmut Lang logo adds a polished touch, while the interior is flawlessly finished with mainly flat fell seams that ensure the jeans will be worn for years without fraying. Finally, the waistline has been internally reinforced with sturdy interfacing to give it structure in lieu of a waistband.

Striking in their boldness and simplicity, these iconic jeans are an exceptional find from one of Lang's best collections. Their unconventional and much-imitated design acts as proof Lang's timelessly relevant approach.

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