IT 40: Best for a Women's UK 12/US 8, a UK 10/US 6 or a Men's IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Helmut Lang tailored coat from A/W 2003-2004. In excellent used condition; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy.
A/W 2003 is seen by many as Helmut Lang's definitive 'bondage' collection. A diverse variety of inspirations -ranging from airforce uniforms and Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries to classic evening tailoring- were refined into a unique collection that combined subcultural aggression with refined sartorialism. The season's conceptually rich designs have become part of contemporary fashion history, influencing a wide range of designers in the process. That said, effortless simplicity maintains a key position in Lang's tailored designs, and the evolution of his work is manifested in subtle, elegant and often unexpected ways. This classic Chesterfield coat is one of Lang's most iconic pieces, encapsulating his visually resolute and streamlined approach to power dressing. Since its introduction for A/W 1993, it was re-issued every season for men and women until the label's demise (pictured: S/S 1995, A/W 2003).
The cut is timeless and flattering with sharp shoulders, a straight body and narrow elongated sleeves. The sharp silhouette is enhanced by the thick moleskin cotton fabric. One of Lang's signature outerwear materials, this substantial fabric has a dense twill weave with a sheared surface. This results in a warm andhard-wearing material that maintains an exceptionally soft texture that ages wonderfully over time. Furthermore, its heavy weight gives the coat a strongly structured drape that complements the clean tailored lines of the design. The front has a concealed three-button closure, while the back has a short buttoned vent. The cuffs are finished with Lang's signature elastic bondage cuff straps that can be removed.
The quality of this piece is excellent, as to be expected from Helmut Lang's renown tailoring. The undercollar features hand-sewn felt in a marbled tonal hue that looks beautiful when worn up. The concealed placket is hand-finished with a separate lining. All buttons are made from matte tonal resin in line with the piece's minimalist aesthetic. The interior is fully lined in silky gold viscose that feels pleasant against the skin, while all pockets are lined in smooth cotton. The lining is attached by hand on the shoulders and hem, while its edges are adorned with sartorial pick stitching. The interior is finished with two buttoned pockets.
This classic piece combines many of the details of Lang's menswear with a flattering and effortless shape. While sporting a timelessly sharp silhouette, the coat's tactilely pleasant textures and uncluttered aesthetic make for a beautiful everyday staple that can be worn from day to night. Strongly recommended.
