Helmut Lang
2003 Extrafine Jersey Bondage Biker T-Shirt with Smile Pockets
2003 Extrafine Jersey Bondage Biker T-Shirt with Smile Pockets
Size 38: Best for any size between a Women's UK 8/US 4 and a UK 12/US 10, or a Men's IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Helmut Lang bondage T-shirt with pockets and cuff straps from A/W 2003-2004. In brand new condition without tags; all pockets remain sewn shut. Made in Italy.
A/W 2003 is seen by many as Helmut Lang's definitive 'bondage' collection. A diverse variety of inspirations -ranging from airforce uniforms and Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries to classic evening tailoring- were refined into a unique collection that combined subcultural aggression with refined sartorialism. The season's conceptually rich designs have become part of contemporary fashion history, influencing a wide range of designers in the process.
This statement T-shirt is of the collection's most characteristic tops and appeared prominently on the runway presentation. Its unconventional design captures Lang's idiosyncratic 'bondage' aesthetic, while its construction and fabrication are exceptionally luxurious. The most noticeable feature is undoubtedly the pockets that decorate the chest, waist and elbows. Their positioning subtly evokes the protective padding of biker garments, while their curvilinear shape is an exaggerated adaptation of the 'smile pockets' found in traditional Western shirts and jackets. Americana has been a persistent source of inspiration for Lang since his brand's outset, and he appropriated its visual culture in quirky and unexpected ways. The sleeves are finished with Lang's iconic bondage cuff straps: unlike the men's versions which are realised in opaque elastic tape, these are crafted from translucent and shiny elastic that adds an unconventional couture element to the gorgeous design.
The T-shirt is crafted from an extrafine egyptian cotton jersey. An outstanding fabric of exceptional quality, it has a very high thread count that gives it a luxuriously soft and smooth finish. Furthermore, the mercerised treatment of the yarn produces a gorgeous pearlescent shine. The top has a form-fitting and elongated silhouette that is closely tailored to the lines of the body. The crew neckline and large pocket welts are finished with ribbed trims. Finally, please note the perfectionist finishing of the neckline seam and positioning of the Helmut Lang label. Overall, it is evident that the quality of this piece is superior to that of most designer T-shirts.
This piece is a wonderful demonstration of Lang's ability to transform basic garments into striking showpieces. Deeply conceptual and exquisitely crafted, it is eye-catching as much as it is wearable. Furthermore, its limited production and unworn condition make it a very rare find that is unlikely to resurface again.