Helmut Lang jeans with rubber tape applications from S/S 2003. In brand new condition with tags. Made in Italy. RRP: $380 (£232)
Jeans were one of Helmut Lang's most popular transeasonal pieces and fashion critics have widely acknowledged that his innovative designs were catalytic in the transformation of denim garments to covetable, highly conceptual fashion items. When Prada purchased the label, the 'Helmut Lang Jeans' line was discontinued in a failed attempt to make the brand appear more upmarket. By the time this piece was designed, Lang's denim products were largely limited to runway pieces, and were thus even more idiosyncratic. Indeed, although they are marked 'Classic', there is nothing ordinary about these jeans.
The fabric is a Lang's signature heavy denim with a 'vintage' finish. The jeans feature pronounced variations in shade and texture reminiscent of the fading caused by extensive use. The cut is timelessly elegant with a tight seat and a straight leg (pictured: two looks from S/S 1998 and the designer on the S/S 2003 and S/S 2004 runways). The jeans' classic silhouette is given an interesting twist by asymmetric rubber applications, which adorn the left side of the waist and left leg. The stiff nature of the rubber tape gives these areas a deep black coated appearance and a sculptural three-dimensional shape. This unique detailing creates a distinctive colour-block effect, in line with the modern and sophisticated approach of Lang's latest seasons. Similar finishes have appeared in Helmut Lang collections since 1995.
The front fly closes with five large buttons. Contrasting silver hardware engraved with the Helmut Lang logo complements the jeans' classic aesthetic. Like Lang's denim jackets, selected details such as the buttonholes are sewn with black instead of orange thread for a streamlined effect. The interior is flawlessly finished with flat fell seams that ensure the jeans will be worn for years without fraying. A red stitch gives subtle contrast to the outer side seam, revealed when the cuffs are turned up. Overall, the jeans feel substantial and will age well over time.
These directional jeans combine Helmut Lang's cutting-edge aesthetic with a handsome cut. Traditional yet simultaneously avant-garde, they arean excellent demonstration of Lang's experimental approach to denim.
