IT 44: Best for an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS, a Women's UK 12/US 10 or aUK 14/US 12.
Helmut Lang tailored blazer from A/W 2002-2003. In excellent used condition; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy. RRP: $1695 (£1029) (part of a two-piece suit - find the trousershere)
The A/W 2002 collection epitomises the high sophistication of Lang's final years, and we consider it as one of his very best seasons. The sobriety of evening wear and classic tailored shapes was subverted by the use of deconstructed cut-outs and intricately layered jersey skeletons, while lustrous patent leather and exotic skins such as perch and stingray lent an avant-garde edge to the luxurious designs. At the same time, hallmark Helmut Lang materials such as heavy moleskin cotton, raw denim and rubber elastic tape highlighted the collection's self-referential character, which drew elements from Lang's military streetwear collections from the 1990s. The overall result was an eclectic celebration that brought together disparate influences to create a sophisticated and thoroughly modern wardrobe. This classic jacket was shown in striking all-white layered ensembles for A/W 2001 and 2002, and captures Helmut Lang's sharp and streamlined approach to power dressing. At the same time, its refined style is offset by unexpected bondage-inspired details that hint to Lang's later collections.
The cut is relaxed and precise with softly padded shoulders that lend the jacket a defined yet effortless shape. The front has a medium lapel and a two-button closure. The jacket's minimalist aesthetic is complemented by its high quality fabrication. Although comprised of 100% cotton, the fabric's high thread count and lusciously smooth texture make it very precious. Its hand-pressed finish and dense weave lend it an elegant sateen touch. On the interior, Lang's signature carrying straps give the jacket a subversive edge. They can be worn across the body in a distinctive X-shape or adjusted to carry the jacket like a backpack.
The jacket's front has darts and a canvassed construction that gives it an effortless structured drape. The undercollar features a hand-sewn felt insert in a marbled beige/brown colour that looks beautiful when turned up. The cuffs have three buttons. The interior is fully lined in smooth viscose in a grey/gold hue and features two buttoned pockets in different sizes. The edges of the lining feature meticulously executed pick stitching. The back is finished with a single vent.
This jacket has a timeless and versatile cut, complemented by an excellent fabric and Helmut Lang's iconic bondage detailing. Lang's idiosyncratic approach to tailoring was conducive in transforming classic forms into sophisticated and refined runway pieces. The impact of his sophisticated approach is still clearly evident in numerous contemporary designers and Helmut Lang clothes are just as relevant today as they were when they first showcased.
