2002 Heavy Overdyed Denim Deconstructed Jacket with Extended Pockets
Size IT 40: Best for a Women's UK 10/US 6, a UK 8/US 4 or a slim IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Helmut Lang layered denim jacket from S/S 2002. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
Vogue.com's Laird Borelli described Lang's S/S 2002 collection as 'mixing romanticism, sex, and science, [balancing] flesh-baring cutouts and bondage-style harnesses with Great Gatsby-style femininity.' At first glance, clean silhouettes and a largely monochromatic palette give the impression of a certain simplicity. Upon a closer inspection, however, it becomes evident that there was nothing simplistic about this collection. Hard and soft were balanced throughout the show: the sueded texture of perch (fish) leather was juxtaposed with the pristine structure of shiny patent leather, and intricately layered transparent silks were paired with linear outerwear. Cut outs and Lang's iconic deconstructed skeleton garments created fluid lines on the wearers' bodies.
A season exclusive, this unconventional jacket is a denim adaptation of a tailored design that can be seen on the runway (pictured). The front has an unusual arrangement consisting of two slit-shaped pockets placed along the yoke, extending below an additional layer of fabric placed over the chest. The flaps that are visible at waist level are therefore the bottom sections of the chest pockets. This construction may be one of Lang's most unorthodox and is certainly the most confusing. A distinctive point collar and waist tabs complete the design.
The piece is crafted from heavyweight denim that has been overdyed black to achieve a deep colour. Over time, the fabric's edges will fade into a striking dark grey. The fabric has substantial weight, giving structure to the clean shape. The silhouette is timelessly sharp with a semi-fitted straight body and high armholes that give definition to the shoulders.
The construction of this piece is excellent and hard-wearing like all Helmut Lang denim garments. Precise lines and absolute symmetry highlight the designer's attention-to-detail, while honouring the design's traditional workwear origins. The hardware is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo and has a tonal gunmetal finish that adds a polished touch. Bar tack stitches reinforce the edges of the pockets to protect their structural integrity. On the inside, flat-fell seams protect the interior from undesirable fraying while making the jacket reversible and indestructible.
Combining Helmut Lang Jeans' cutting-edge aesthetic with couture sensibilities, this masterfully executed jacket will become the focal point of any sophisticated casual look. Furthermore, it was only available as part of the S/S 2002 collection and its rarity cannot be overstated. Strongly recommended.