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2002 Fine Jersey Backstage T-Shirt with Geometric Print

Helmut Lang

2002 Fine Jersey Backstage T-Shirt with Geometric Print

£205.00

Two sizes available:
- Size M (oversize): Best for any size between an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S and a slim IT 52 - 42 Chest - L. Can also be worn oversize by women sized UK 14/US 10 and below.
- Size XL (oversize): Best for any size between an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M and an IT 54 - 44 Chest - XL

Helmut Lang long-sleeve t-shirt with print from A/W 2002-2003. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

The A/W 2002 collection epitomises the high sophistication of Lang's 'luxury' period in the early 2000's, and I consider it as one of his very best seasons. The sobriety of evening wear and classic tailored shapes was subverted by the use of deconstructed cut-outs and intricately layered jersey skeletons, while lustrous patent leather and exotic skins such as perch and stingray lent unconventional textures to the luxurious designs. Hallmark Helmut Lang materials such as heavy moleskin cotton, raw denim and rubber elastic tape highlighted the collection's self-referential character, which drew elements from Lang's classic collections from the 1990s. The overall result was an eclectic celebration that brought together disparate influences to create a sophisticated and thoroughly avant-garde wardrobe. 

Helmut Lang's signature backstage T-shirts were first introduced in the early 1990s and soon became one of the label's staple garments. The typical format consisted of an oversized logo on the upper back, often accompanied by specific information on the garment's provenance. Seasonal decorations of varying sizes and printing methods can also be occasionally seen on the front.

For A/W 2002, Lang embellished men's tops and knitwear with abstract geometrical symbols formed of thick rectangular shapes. The decoration seen on this piece is comprised of of two vertical shapes that surround four smaller symmetrically positioned elements. The composition can be interpreted in several ways: My proposal is that the smaller shapes form the negative shape of a cross, a recurrent symbol in Helmut Lang iconography. Lee Clark, on the other hand, suggests that they form the negative shape of a double H (rendered as HH with a single vertical line in the middle). While the composition's meaning remains uncertain, its bold linear look and inherent ambiguity are certainly characteristic of Lang's approach. The back features the brand's logo, followed by 'collection autumn/hiver 2002/03 established 1986* PARIS · NEW YORK'. All decorations have been screen printed using thick matte white ink that contrasts pronouncedly with the deep black colour of the fabric. 

The T-shirt has a slightly oversize silhouette, with dropped shoulders and elongated proportions. The fabric is luxurious cotton jersey with a mercerised treatment. The finely knit material has a deep colour and a beautifully lustrous surface. Furthermore, its high thread count results in a pleasantly rich and smooth texture while ensuring that it will maintain its colour and softness for longer. The construction is precise and streamlined throughout, evident in the top's clean lines. Finally, the neckline is finished with soft ribbed trim

To conclude, this impeccably crafted piece demonstrates the hallmarks that have made Helmut Lang T-shirts so coveted years after the label's demise: printed decorations are used in moderation while the shapes are precisely tailored and realised in excellent quality fabrics. This not-so-basic approach to basics was crucial to Lang's commercial success and remains as relevant as ever.


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