38 Chest/15 Neck: Best for an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang classic dress shirt from S/S 2002. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
Vogue.com's Laird Borelli described Lang's S/S 2002 collection as 'mixing romanticism, sex, and science, [balancing] flesh-baring cutouts and bondage-style harnesses with Great Gatsby-style femininity.' Upon a first look, clean silhouettes and a largely monochromatic palette give the impression of a minimalist look. Upon a closer inspection, however, it becomes evident that there was nothing simplistic about this collection. Hard and soft were balanced throughout the show: the sueded texture of perch (fish) leather was juxtaposed with the pristine structure of metallic patent leather, while intricately layered transparent silks were paired with linear outerwear. Lang's iconic deconstructed basics and skeleton garments created fluid lines on the wearers' bodies.
Materials were at the forefront of Lang's design process, and the unconventional fabrics he used for his traditionally-styled shirts set a new precedent for contemporary menswear. This spectacular shirt is crafted from a unique technical mesh fabric. Its weave consists of a dense mesh base that has been reinforced with horizontal threads in an alternating pattern. The result is an intricately textured and structured material that looks and feels completely different from typical shirt fabrics. The silhouette is slimmer than classic Helmut Lang shirts with a narrow shoulderline, slim sleeves and a narrow body.
Like all Helmut Lang shirts, the construction and finishing of this piece are excellent. The mother-of-pearl button closure leads up to a chunky English spread collar. The sleeves have a sharp two-piece construction, enhancing the shirt's structured look. The chunky barrel cuffs are adjustable with two precise pleats. Likewise, the upper back features side pleats for increased comfort. All interior seams have flat fell finishing that prevents them from undesirable fraying, thereby ensuring the longevity of the shirt.
Traditional yet forward-looking, pristine yet nonchalant, this shirt subtly represents many of the premises around which Helmut Lang's menswear was built on. Its one-of-a-kind fabrication and expert craftsmanship make it ideal for both casual and more daring formal outfits.
