2002 Coated Silk/Wool Hand-Tailored Blazer Jacket
IT 50 - 40 chest - M: Can also fit a large IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane tailored blazer jacket from S/S 2002 'Boys Don't Cry/RED'. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: £1295 (part of a two-piece suit - find the trousers here)
From the very beginning of his paradigm-shifting tenure as designer of Dior Homme, Hedi Slimane ensured that high-quality tailoring was at the forefront of the range by partnering with Italian suit manufacturer Caruso. While his vision was by no means traditionalist, Slimane's uncompromising commitment to time-proven craftsmanship and meticulous hand-finishing gave a cachet to his designs that could convince even the most discerning customer. This approach formed the basis of the young Dior Homme brand, where old-world luxury met the aesthetic of youth subcultures. It is fair to say that Slimane's work has been hugely influential, contributing to the formation of contemporary menswear like few other designers.
This exquisite piece was designed for Slimane's first collection for Dior, A/W 2001-2002 'Solitaire' (see first runway photo), and reissued for the summer collection that followed. It is a rare example of a three-button Dior Homme blazer; these were showcased solely on the brand's first two runways and became common again years after Slimane's departure. Its silhouette is quintessential Hedi, featuring a narrow high-armhole cut with an elongated body that would be ideal for taller frames. The fabric is a luxurious 49% silk/51% virgin wool blend in a beautiful dark/steel grey melange. A subtle resin coating lends a faint luster and a crisp, modern feel to the material that sets it apart from common tailoring fabrics. The front features Slimane's much-copied narrow lapels while the back has a single vent.
In order to truly appreciate this jacket one needs to closely inspect its many well thought-out details. First of all, the front is constructed using full floating horsehair canvassing (a feature used in highest quality tailoring) that gives it a supremely elegant structure without stiffness. The undercollar has an entirely hand-sewn felt panel in a beautiful marbled grey colour, with ornate pick-stitching visible from the collar's interior (refer to photograph 12). The waist pockets are subtly finished with semi-circular reinforcement stitches, and all buttons are made from genuine buffalo horn. The interior is as beautifully constructed as the shell, with extensive hand-stitching used to decorate and attach the lining. Interestingly, the underarm areas feature gusset panels to optimise arm movement while reducing liner bulk.
Overall, this blazer is a splendid example of Hedi Slimane's razor-sharp tailoring, executed to a standard that is nearly impossible to find in today's designer market. It is widely agreed that the quality of Dior Homme suiting gradually decreased as Slimane departed, and the suit we currently have for sale acts as a testament to the high standard that he was able to achieve early on without compromising on his groundbreaking aesthetic.