2002 Cashmere/Wool Double Breasted Coat
IT 42: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or a UK 10/US 8.
Helmut Lang tailored coat from A/W 2002-2003. In brand new condition without tags; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy. RRP: $2085 (£1280)
Although this piece is from Lang's A/W 2002 collection, its design actually dates back to A/W 1993 and was released almost every winter season that followed. The early 1990s were undoubtedly one of Lang's most important periods; his novel aesthetic was starting to receive attention from outside Europe and the press described it as 'minimalist', often in juxtaposition to the visually saturated creations of Ferre and Versace from the late 1980s. Lang's designs represented a new approach to dressing, where luxury was achieved through effortless sophistication and an emphasis on luxurious fabrics and elegant cuts rather than gratuitous ornamentation and oversized logos. This coat is a quintessential Helmut Lang garment, with a timeless yet directional design and beautiful attention to detail.
The coat is made from a heavyweight cashmere/wool melton fabric with a subtly brushed finish that gives it a lusciously soft texture. The luxurious fabric is realised in a beautiful pearl/beige colour hue that complements the coat's flattering narrow cut. The front is double breasted with oversized lapels that drape wonderfully when open and a tall collar that can be worn up or down. A sharp horizontal seam on the lower waist gives the coat a subtle avant-garde touch. The back is finished with a single vent and there are four buttons on each cuff.
Upon a closer inspection, it is easy to see that the quality of this piece is impeccable. All seams are flawlessly executed and give the coat an architectural precision. The buttons are realised in tonal resin that complements the refined colour of the coat. Unlike most winter coats, the interior is fully lined in a silky viscose that feels pleasant against the skin.
This piece demonstrates Helmut Lang's sharp eye and timeless aesthetic, that has been reproduced numerous times but never fully replicated. The fact that it was designed over 20 years ago and still looks better than similar garments designed nowadays is nothing but impressive.