Helmut Lang bondage trousers with flap from A/W 2002-2003. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.
The A/W 2002 collection epitomises the high sophistication of Lang's 'luxury' period in the early 2000's, and I consider it as one of his very best seasons. The sobriety of evening wear and classic tailored shapes was subverted by the use of deconstructed cut-outs and intricately layered jersey skeletons, while lustrous patent leather and exotic skins such as perch and stingray lent unconventional textures to the luxurious designs. Hallmark Helmut Lang materials such as heavy moleskin cotton, raw denim and rubber elastic tape highlighted the collection's self-referential character, which drew elements from Lang's classic collections from the 1990s. The overall result was an eclectic celebration that brought together disparate influences to create a sophisticated and thoroughly avant-garde wardrobe.
Combining historical details with Lang's avant-garde sensibilities, these trousers were one of the collection's signature garments and were worn by both men and women on the runway. The design has a traditional construction inspired by mid-century workwear, similar to Lang's classic chino trouser. Interestingly, a sailor-inspired flap covers the fly area to create a directional point of interest. Tabs with chunky snap buttons fasten to metal D-rings to secure the panel, allowing for it to be left partially open for an unconventional look that is unmistakably Lang. The fabric is robust and sturdy cotton twill in a beautiful beige/camel hue that will age wonderfully over time. The silhouette is fitted throughout with a slightly tapered slim leg.
A variety of beautiful details complete the design and demonstrate Lang's commitment to high quality craftsmanship. The front features a zip fly closure and slit pockets placed discreetly along the side seams, while the back has buttoned welt pockets. Precise bar tacks are used to reinforce the pocket edges while maintaining their streamlined aesthetic, while the narrow waistband is devoid of belt loops for a cleaner look. The hardware has a polished silver finish that creates beautiful contrast with the matte cotton fabric. Most importantly, the interior is exquisitely constructed and just as beautiful as the exterior. White cotton has been used on the pockets and seam binding and, although the trousers are unlined, a rectangular piece of fabric has been placed on the crotch to protect the wearer's body while reinforcing this area against wear.
Overall, this beautifully crafted trouser is a wonderful example of Lang's idiosyncratic vision, while acting as a testament to the excellent quality of his mainline. While being versatile and easy to wear, they will add a striking element to any casual outfit. Strongly recommended.
