Raf Simons black jeans with waist zipper from A/W 2002-2003 'Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus Quinquefolia)'. In excellent used condition. Made in Belgium.
'Virginia Creeper' is remembered as one of Simons's most eclectic and aesthetically subversive collections to this date. Bringing together a diverse variety of Americana-related inspirations, Simons adapted his unique subculture-inspired aesthetic to create the sartorial equivalent of a no man's land in the American South, where everything -from alligators and poisonous plants to murderous maniacs- can kill you. The notes of Antwerp's MoMu Fashion Museum explain:
'The starting point of this collection is the duality of nature. Both soothing and cruel, nature is still not totally conquered by mankind. At the same time the forceful beauty of nature continues to be a fascination, for previous as much as today's generation. [...] Vast and impenetrable woods still put fear into mere mortals. Uncharted swamps serve no real purpose but remain the staple of ominous tales and whispered stories. Poisonous weeds (like the Canadian Virginia Creeper of the collection's title) are a wonderful sight to the eye of the beholder while at the same time cannot be touched or eaten. All said subjects, predators, plants and caprices of nature alike, are isolated, almost separated from modern civilisation. They compose both themes and background of our darker fantasies. It is not surprising, that they keep cropping up in horror movies (e.g. The Blair Witch Project, The Swamp Thing) as well as thriller books. No wonder their splendid, self-contained isolation alludes to a higher, and more pure state of mind.'
The clothes were rich in narrative and style:
'The colours used in the collection are all derived from nature-related themes: forest browns and nightly blacks, slate greys, leafy greens and snowy off-whites. Just like owl feathers or the shades over swamps keep blending into each other, the silhouettes also have changing hues and colour tones, similar to the notion of camouflage. Coats are heavy and loose - almost dripping off the body. Sleeveless padded jackets, hooded, parka-like coats and adventure-style jacquard sweaters are worn on top of each other, to create a 'explorer-of-nature' feel. [...] Also referring to the swamp scenery is a surprising bondage theme. Surprising as the bondage look is not used to restrict or confine the body. Instead, thick harnesses of ribbons are 'draped' over voluminous coats and baggy trousers similar to an imaginary safety net.'
These iconic jeans were one of the collection's signature trousers, and were shown in several runway looks. Like other 'Virginia Creeper' garments, their design is an intersection of classic details and unexpected touches that channel the collection's rugged, multi-layered aesthetic. Most interestingly, Simons has radically deconstructed the jeans' waistband, extending its length and inserting a heavy double zipper. While creating a striking point of interest in itself, the zipper can be used to partially detach the waistband panel or remove it entirely to create a distinctively aggressive element. Three stud buttons secure the waistband's extended flap and further add to the intricacy of the design. The same design is also available in brown.
The jeans are crafted from medium-weight cotton in a firm flat weave: The fabric is overdyed for a deep colour with a vintage finish and has been double-layered throughout, creating a slightly cushioned effect. The cut is fitted on the seat and very elongated, with a wide straight leg. The finishing is precise and streamlined, featuring a classic 5-pocket arrangement where the edges of the pockets have been reinforced using horizontal bar tack stitches instead of the typical metal rivets. On the interior, the pockets are lined in smooth black cotton like traditional tailored trousers.
A sophisticated and versatile design, these jeans will complement a variety of outfits while maintaining the unconventional edge that has defined Raf Simons's early work.
