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2001 Wool/Silk Tailored Trousers with Elastic Bondage Belt

Helmut Lang

2001 Wool/Silk Tailored Trousers with Elastic Bondage Belt

£195.00

Size IT 40: Best for a 28or 29" waist. The length of the belt measures 46,5"

Helmut Lang tailored trousers from S/S 2001. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

While the S/S 2001 women's collection was praised for its sensual silhouettes and deconstructed details, the men's range was a more subdued effort that concentrated on tailored shapes and clean silhouettes in a largely monochromatic palette. Lang's typical plays were still present in the form of perforated and translucent fabrics, flashes of leather and covert bondage-inspired details, however the overall effect was characterised by subtlety and unblemished finesse. Although this piece has a women's size, its pattern is the same as the mens' version, making it a unisex garment.

These trousers were one of the collection's signature designs, appearing several times on the runway show as well as the seasonal campaign. While they are conservatively styled and traditionally constructed, their classicism is offset by an attached belt made from Lang's signature elastic tape (famously employed in his bondage details), creating a graphic point of interest. The belt features a large silver D-ring closure and is finished with stiff black leather trims. Buttons on the sides of the waistband can be used to secure it to the trousers, allowing for it to be worn loose as shown on the runway photos. Naturally, the belt can be removed and worn independently. The cut is narrow throughout, with a slim straight leg. The fabric is a finely woven 85% virgin wool/15% silk blend with a smooth texture and a soft, airy drape.

Like all Helmut Lang trousers, the construction of this pair is of a very high standard: The seat has a flat construction devoid of pleats or creases for a clean look. Workwear-inspired quarter pockets complete the front while the back has buttoned welt pockets. The fly closes with four buttons, two hook-and-eye closures and an anchor button; this ensures that tension is distributed evenly without distressing the precious silk material. Similarly, subtle bar tack stitches reinforce the edges of the pockets. The interior waistband is canvassed to prevent stretching and lined with Lang's signature rows of contrasting fabrics with a branded embroidery.

Overall, these rare trousers combine traditional craftsmanship with Lang's fashion forward finishing. They are distinguished as an interesting early example of Lang's experimentations with the elastic tape that defined his bondage collections. While being interesting from a historical perspective, they are also well proportioned and made to last.


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