2001 Soft Virgin Wool Flannel Classic Jacket
IT 44: Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang hand-tailored jacket from A/W 2001. In excellent used condition with minor scuff on upper back. Made in Italy.
'"It’s the opposite of logomania," explains Lang. "We stand for something very different and modern, but traditional and well made, as well—something that just feels right. Our clients rely on us; they know that when we put something out it’s been thought about carefully."'
-Helmut Lang in a US Vogue feature about his work, May 2000
Helmut Lang's classic suit jacket for men is a quiet and clean design, devoid of superficial details. Still, it is one of his most successful and influential creations. As the identity of the brand became synonymous with sophisticated progress in the early 1990's, the designer sought to create a suit that would epitomise his philosophy; uncompromisingly modern yet deeply informed by tradition, classic in some ways and avant-garde in others. Like all fashion designers who respect old-school tailoring's core principles, Lang didn't seek to create a trendy 'designer suit'. Instead, he sought to subtly rework its existing features to create an ensemble that would look timeless and flattering, now and forever. (Runway photographs: S/S 2001, AW 2001.)
This jacket, along with many of the tailored garments found at ENDYMA, offers a detailed demonstration of Lang's thoughtful approach which seems to be more aesthetically relevant than ever. First and foremost, the shape: The front is carefully shaped to fit the subtle contours of the male body while the back is cut with enough room to create a clean straight line. The shoulders are semi-fitted, with padding that is soft enough to add definition to the figure without distorting its natural shape. Likewise, the armholes are cut slightly higher, creating an elegant and flattering element without compromising on the jacket's comfort.
Second, the finishing and construction of the jacket are a testament to Lang's exceptional attention-to-detail. The lapels have a trim narrow shape, that is a clear reaction to the period's mainstream shapes without looking contrived. The two-button closure on the front has a somewhat high stance that is elegant enough while maintaining a classic character. All pocket and lapel edges are left clean without decorative stitching. The cuffs are finished with four buttons, while the back has a single vent. The overall result is linear, streamlined and undeniably relevant despite its age.
Furthermore, this particular version from A/W 2001 is constructed from a lightweight and luxurious virgin wool flannel. Considerably more delicate and softer than typical flannels, the fabric has a soft hand and smooth brushed finish that effortlessly complements the jacket's clean lines. Its subtle dark grey colour contrasts beautifully with the military green colour of the buttons, while the undercollar features hand-sewn black felt. The interior is lined with a delicate grey/plum sateen and has four welt pockets. The lining has been attached almost entirely by hand, and its edges are decorated with pick-stitching.
Timelessly sharp and flawlessly executed, this jacket is a gorgeous example of Lang's paradigm-shifting tailoring. Its minimalist aesthetic makes it a versatile option for a variety of situations, while the beautiful fabric and hand-finished details reveal its exceptional quality.