IT 42: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or aUK 10/US 8.
Helmut Lang tailored coat from S/S 2001. In brand new condition without tags; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy.
S/S 2001 was a quintessential Helmut Lang collection that combined his cerebral conceptualism with a new sense of raw-yet-refined sexiness. Still, effortless simplicity maintains a key position in Lang's tailored designs, and the evolution of his work is manifested in subtle, elegant and often unexpected ways. This beautiful Chesterfield coat demonstrates Lang's nuanced approach with its unique fabric, hand-finished detailing and subversive bondage-inspired elements. Originally presented on the A/W 1993 runway, the classic design was released every season that followed in different fabrics (pictured: S/S 2001, S/S 1994, A/W 1995 and S/S 1999).
This version of the coat is crafted from aluxurious silk/cotton fabric in a textured flat weave. The alternating pattern of silver silk and beige cotton threads gives the material a pronounced texture with a subtle sheen. The fabric's strong drape complements the coat's structured cut, with narrow shoulders, a form-fitting body and slim elongated sleeves. The front has a concealed button closure with elegant pick-stitching along the placket, lapel edges and pocket flaps. This exquisite detail gives an ornate sartorial finish to the piece that is seldom seen in designer garments nowadays. The back has an elegant contoured cut with a high vent. On the interior, Helmut Lang's signature bondage harness strap with a metal D-ring adjustment adorns the waist.
The quality of this piece is spectacular and demonstrates Helmut Lang's renown tailoring at its very best. One of the most impressive details is the coat's concealed placket, whose underside has a sharp 'slit' construction. Its technically challenging execution is precise and separately lined. The undercollar is finished with felt in a beautiful marbled off-white colour that looks fantastic when the collar is kept up. The back vent secures with a button. The coat's interior is fully lined in silky gold viscose that feels pleasant against the skin, while all pockets are lined in smooth white cotton. Overall, all exterior seams and pick stitches are flawlessly executed and give the coat an architectural precision that is synonymous with Lang's tailoring.
This is a signature Helmut Lang garment with a timeless design, subtly subversive finishes and an extraordinary fabric. Helmut Lang's idiosyncratic approach to tailoring was conducive in transforming classic forms into sophisticated and refined runway pieces and the influence of his groundbreaking vision can be observed on numerous contemporary labels, from avant-garde pioneers like Phoebe Philo for Céline and Raf Simons for Jil Sander/Dior to brands like APC, COS and TopShop. Helmut Lang clothes are just as relevant today as they were when they first showcased, and this rare coat looks and feels better than similar garments designed nowadays.
