Size M (oversize): Best for an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M/L or aslim IT 52 - 42 Chest - L.
Helmut Lang bondage shirt from S/S 2001. In brand new condition without tags, with minor hole near back left hem. Made in Italy.
While there is much to say about Helmut Lang's S/S 2001 collection for women, the men's offerings were slightly less directional in comparison. Showcasing primarily tailored looks in black and unusual tones of beige, salmon and yellow, Lang created a polished and tightly controlled definition of masculine modernity. Touches of bare skin, perforated leather (seen on jackets as well as underwear) and translucent layers added a much-needed lightness to the severe edit. The presentation left something to be desired for fans of Lang's by-then-discontinued Jeans line. Still, with the generous financial backing of Prada in full effect, the clothes were more luxurious than ever and there is much to appreciate in the menswear from this period in Lang's career.
Materials were at the forefront of Lang's design process, and the unconventional fabrics he used for his traditionally-styled shirts set a new precedent for contemporary menswear. This beautiful short-sleeve is crafted from a substantial cotton jersey with a pronounced mercerised finish, similar to the fabrics Lang used in his women's tops. Luxuriously smooth and soft with a pearlescent shine, it is certainly one of the most outstanding jersey fabrics I have seen. The clean lines of the piece are offset by Lang's iconic bondage strap on the lower back. Crafted from herringbone cotton tape, itsecures with D-rings and hangs visibly below the hem. Its horizontal stitches are visible from the exterior, creating a linear element that is unexpectedly decorative.
The cut is Lang's classic shape which maintained the ease of a full cut shirt without additional bulk, resulting in an archetypal masculine look that is precise and timeless. Elements such as the high armholes and narrow sleeve cap lend a certain sharpness to the shape and make for a very flattering silhouette. The mother-of-pearl button closure leads up to a beautiful point collar with a strong yet subtle shape. The hem is slightly longer at the back and finished with side slits.
Traditional yet forward-looking, pristine yet nonchalant, this shirt represents many of the premises and contradictions around which Helmut Lang's menswear was built on. Its one-of-a-kind fabrication and unconventional aesthetic make it ideal for both casual and more daring formal outfits.
