2001 Coated Silk Half-Raglan Raincoat with Leather Collar
IT 46 - 36 Chest - S: Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.
Helmut Lang mac coat from A/W 2001-2002. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: $2480 (£1722)
For A/W 2001, Lang focused his efforts exclusively on formal tailoring. Armand Limnander writes:
'Die-hard fans of sleek power dressing will find plenty of sharp, no-nonsense basics at Helmut Lang come Fall. After Spring's sex-driven tour de force, the Austrian designer has gone for a more sober approach, referencing some of his own early work in the process. Lang's mostly black collection revolved around many of his well-known classics: Fitted blazers, narrow trousers and sharp-edged coats continue to work as a modern urban uniform. Lang added some eye-catching touches like plush fur linings on overcoats [and] policeman-like holsters that curled around the shoulder on empire slips.'
The balancing act of creating interesting garments while maintaining a refined classicism has always been one of Helmut Lang's fortes, and this collection took his detail-oriented approach to new heights. On a first glance, pieces like this raincoat seem almost archetypal in their formality: a concealed button closure, a classic point collar and simple waist pockets. However, upon a closer exploration it becomes clear that every feature of this piece is the result of unconventional design and painstaking attention to detail.
First of all, the fabrics: The shell is made from pure silk canvas that has been coated with polyurethane to create a hard-wearing yet luxurious outerwear material with a crisp drape and semi-matte finish. The fabric's clean finish is offset by the pronounced grains of the polished calf leather collar. The cut is semi-fitted with enough room for a blazer. Pronounced shoulders and a slightly tapered waist create a handsome masculine silhouette. Most interestingly, the shoulders have an intricate 'half-raglan' shape: the front is set-in like typical sleeves while the back has a floating raglan construction like traditional trench coats. The two techniques are disrupted on the top of the shoulder by a seam that reaches the cuffs. While adding a sophisticated point of interest, this intricate construction affords a greater range of movement.
Further details: The concealed placket on the coat's front is hand-finished with a separate lining. All buttons are made from matte tonal resin in line with the piece's minimalist aesthetic. Likewise, the cuffs are finished without buttons. The interior is fully lined in smooth black viscose that feels pleasant against the skin and features two pockets.
Groundbreaking yet classic, this elegant coat serves as a proud reminder of Helmut Lang's enduringly relevant vision. From the avant-garde to the high street, numerous labels and designers have appropriated Lang's work while failing to capture the substance of his vision. In our view, this makes his original work even more enticing.