Helmut Lang
2001 Bonded Stainless Canvas Military Parka with Bondage Strap
2001 Bonded Stainless Canvas Military Parka with Bondage Strap
IT 48 - 38 chest - S/M: Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 chest - M.
Helmut Lang bondage parka jacket from A/W 2001-2002. In excellent used condition; minor wear on the interior. Made in Italy.
The signature funnel neck military parka was first introduced for the A/W 1990 collection (also pictured: A/W 1998) and variations were issued every season that followed the label's demise. Military and workwear styles were an important inspiration for Helmut Lang's menswear. Still, unlike previous seasons where these appropriations were straightforward and clear-cut, A/W 1998-1999 showcases a variety of unique garments whose aesthetic, detailing and execution were characteristically Lang. This piece is a directional example of Lang's futuristic sportswear, where cutting-edge materials meet abstract details and subtle references to subcultural styles.
The cut is loose and straight, allowing the jacket to be worn as an outer layer. A high funnel neck with a three-dimensional construction and a large structured hood lend an aggressive edge to the piece. On the interior, Lang's distinctive waist strap hangs below the hem, creating the layered look that has become synonymous with the designer's bondage work. The chest is finished with Lang's signature rectangular patch pocket, while the waist features two hidden pockets along the side seams. The visionary design is taken to the next level by a compound fabrication, consisting of black cotton/stainless steel canvas bonded to white polyurethane film. This laminate process results in a strong and rigid material that is hard-wearing, windproof and waterproof, while the interwoven metal threads create a flecked appearance with a dry, coarse texture.
The large zipper on the front has a gold finish that produces a strong contrast with the dark-coloured shell, while all remaining hardware has a tonal black finish. The grosgrain cotton waist strap secures with two large metal D-rings, and its horizontal stitching is visible from the exterior. The interior seams are finished to a very high standard with black binding that prevents them from fraying, while making the piece reversible.
A forward-thinking design with considerable attention to detail, this parka demonstrates the enduring relevance of Helmut Lang's casual designs from over a decade ago.