2000 Wool Flannel Classic 1-Button Blazer
Size 48: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.
Raf Simons tailored jacket from A/W 2000 'Confusion'. In excellent used condition; all exterior and interior pockets remain sewn shut. Made in Belgium.
A/W 2000 was the culmination of Raf Simons's experiments with traditional menswear. Named 'Confusion', the collection brought a sinister element to Simons's razor-sharp tailoring in the form of clerical and military influences. Long coats with high necklines and oversized hoods were paired with skinny knitwear and loose trousers, creating a sober and severe atmosphere. Simons's iconic turtleneck was omnipresent in the majority of the outfits, giving them a sense of restrained precision. S/S 2000's reworked bomber jackets were present here as well, however this time they were decorated with obscure patches from American schools and community centres. In our view, this collection is a grand success for Simons and one of his strongest until that point in his career.
This absolutely fantastic blazer captures the collection's formal-oriented attitude. Although the origins of its design date back to Simons's early years as seen on pieces like this, subtle modifications in proportion and construction make it exclusive to this collection and give it a certain old-world elegance that is rarely found in Simons's work.
The jacket is crafted from a luxurious virgin wool flannel in a beautiful grey melange hue. The winter-weight fabric has a smooth fleecy texture and a robust yet soft drape. Its spectacular colour gives depth to the streamlined design, featuring of a single-button closure with narrow notch lapels. The waist welt pockets are constructed without flaps for a cleaner look, while the back has a double vent. The silhouette is slightly different from Simons's classic blazers; his hallmark extra narrow shoulderline is maintained however the body is cut straight for a cleaner shape. Pictured: a schoolboy blazer from the same collection in the same cut and fabric, an earlier version from A/W 1999 as well as a reissue from A/W 2005.
Furthermore, the construction of this piece is exemplary and superior to any other Raf Simons tailoring from this period. Precise canvasing gives the torso a subtly sculptural appearance that reinforces the flawless aesthetic of the piece. The sleeves are finished with three functional buttons and the undercollar features a black felt insert. The interior is lined in luxurious black striped sateen on the body, black/white striped sateen on the sleeves and features two pockets. Finally, a beautiful black hanging chain adorns the neck while the buttons found throughout the piece are crafted from genuine buffalo horn.
A true stand-out from one of Simons's best collections, this blazer captures the finesse and sophistication of his visionary proposal for menswear. Drawing inspiration from Post-Punk fashion as well as traditional tailoring, Simons created suits that were precise and exceptionally good looking. The importance of his work in shaping contemporary menswear cannot be understated.