2001 Wool/Silk Sartorial Panelled Trousers
Size IT 46: Best for a 30" or 31" waist.
Helmut Lang tailored trousers from S/S 2001. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: $495 (£329)
'There were pants in my first collection. We worked on them right away. The only one who I thought did them well was Helmut Lang. There were very few handsome pants on the market.'
- Nicolas Ghesquière interview, 032c magazine
While the S/S 2001 women's collection was praised for its sensual silhouettes and deconstructed details, the men's range was a more subdued effort that concentrated on tailored shapes and clean silhouettes in a largely monochromatic palette. Lang's typical plays were still present in the form of perforated and translucent fabrics, flashes of leather and covert bondage-inspired details, however the overall effect was characterised by subtlety and unblemished finesse.
These trousers are a brilliant example of Lang's impeccable tailoring from the early 2000s, where the quality was at its highest throughout his career. Although their shape is undoubtedly classic, their pattern is completely different from that of typical tailored trousers: Precise geometric panels shape the seat area, where the front is constructed from the same piece of fabric as the back yoke. This results in a sharp angular break at the level of the pockets where the side seam begins, an intricate construction that is best appreciated when the trousers are worn. The cut is fitted with a narrow straight leg; the fabric is a finely woven 85% virgin wool/15% silk blend with a smooth texture and a soft, airy drape.
Tailor made to a very high standard, the trousers are supremely constructed. Reinforced stitching throughout the seat and legs highlights the trousers' unique construction. The pockets are placed discreetly along the seams for a cleaner look, with their edges reinforced with precise bar tack stitches. The waistband has a trim short shape and the button fly is finished with luxurious pick-stitching. The fly closes with four buttons, a hook-and-eye closure and an anchor button; this ensures that tension is distributed evenly without distressing the soft fabric. Finally, thick grosgrain tape protects the hems' interior from wear.
Setting the standard for luxurious tailoring, these supremely crafted trousers highlight Lang's talent at giving a thoroughly modern feel to traditional forms.