Helmut Lang leather blazer jacket from S/S 2002. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: $2500 (£1620)
Effortless simplicity maintains a key element in Helmut Lang's menswear tailoring, and his sophisticated approach manifested itself in subtle, elegant and often unexpected ways. Reissued every season since the early 1990s, this blazer demonstrates Lang's nuanced approach while maintaining the collection's focus on no-nonsense tailoring in a dark palette.
The cut of the jacket is quintessential Helmut Lang, with soft defined shoulders, a fitted body and elongated sleeves. The front has a narrow lapel and a two-button closure, while the back has a single vent. Sharp horizontal seams are found on the front and back. The strong geometrical lines of the jacket's construction give it an architectural precision that is often seen in Lang's designs from this period. In addition to a flattering cut, what sets this piece apart from ordinary jackets is the beautiful leather and its unique treatment. The jacket is made from lusciously smooth lamb leather with a beautiful drape and gentle grains that indicate its high quality. The leather has a beautiful rubberised finish that gives it supple grainy texture with a deep black polished finish. It is one of the most luxurious leathers Helmut Lang has used and it will age wonderfully through wear.
The detailing of this piece demonstrates the high quality of its construction. Like traditionally tailored blazers, the jacket is constructed using horsehair canvassing (a feature used in highest quality tailoring). This gives the jacket an elegant structured drape. All buttons are backed by smaller buttons on the interior; this ensures that they will never come off while maintaining the structure of the precious leather. Likewise, the buttonholes have an intricate bound construction instead of being merely sewn. The interior is fully lined in smooth viscose fabric and features four welt pockets in different sizes.
This is a signature Helmut Lang garment with a timeless cut, a subtly subversive design and beautiful attention to detail. Helmut Lang's idiosyncratic approach to men's tailoring was conducive in transforming classic forms into sophisticated and refined runway pieces. His highly influential clothes are just as relevant today as they were when they were designed, and this rare jacket looks and feels better than similar garments designed nowadays.
