2000 Resinated Cotton Bondage Biker Jacket with Neck Rest Collar

IT 44 (unisex); men's S/XS or women's M/L.

Helmut Lang biker blouson from S/S 2000. In vintage used condition with minor fading on the torso and left arm. Made in Italy.

While Lang's S/S 2000 runway presentation sought to emphasise airiness and fluidity through its simple shapes and translucent fabrics, Helmut Lang Jeans took a different direction. The cutting-edge streetwear shown on previous collections was refined to a new level of sophistication and although these garments were not included in the runway presentation, they are certainly worth the attention of Helmut Lang collectors. A/W 1999's much-coveted biker pieces were reinterpreted in summer-weight materials, while the distinctive neck rest collar (inspired by the shape of travel pillows) became a prominent feature on both men's and women's outerwear. Unusual technical fabrics, harness straps, large cargo pockets and cut-out button plackets gave an aggressive edge to the garments.

This spectacular jacket exhibits many of the aforementioned details, and can be understood as an updated take on Lang's classic 'astro-biker' blouson. The front has a concealed button closure that leads up to a removable neck rest collar with a large hood. The hood can be zipped into the collar, which in turn can be detached to give its place to a cleaner stand-up collar. A metal zipper placed along the waistband adds aggressive detail, while the articulated sleeves are finished with darts on the elbows and cuff zippers. On the interior, Lang's iconic bondage straps can be used to attach the jacket like a harness to the wearer's body, while a lower waist strap securing with D-rings hangs visibly below the hem. Its long horizontal stitches create a subtle linear detail on the jacket's back. 

The visionary design is taken to the next level by its neon red fabric, consisting of technical cotton that has been resinated and then washed for a soft texture with a vibrant finish. The cut is semi-fitted, with narrow shoulders and a straight body. An abundance of thoughtful details complete the piece: The collar is finished with lightweight padding that reinforces its curvilinear shape, while the waist has pockets along the side seams finished with invisible zippers. The unlined interior is beautifully finished with bound seams and a buttoned pocket. 

Overall, this piece is a wonderful example of Lang's futuristic sportswear, where cutting-edge materials meet abstract details and subtle references to subcultural styles. Considerably harder to find than its 1999 counterparts and constructed to a very high standard, it will become a key piece in any forward-thinking collection.