2000 Darted Shoulder Military Raincoat with Leather Details and Belt
IT 46 - 36 Chest - S: Can also fit a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or a Women's UK 14 - US 12.
Helmut Lang mac coat from A/W 2000-2001. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy. RRP: $2340 (£1542)
A/W 2000 is remembered as one of Helmut Lang's most ambitious collections. Featuring over 100 looks, the runway show was a flawless demonstration of Lang's aim to create subversively classic clothing. Simple silhouettes and a restrained palette set the basis for a wardrobe that was unquestionably modern yet deeply informed by tradition, combining the finesse of old-world luxury with subculture-inspired eccentricity and rawness. Complex interior finishes, unconventional construction techniques and exquisite fabrics added further depth to the collection's multi-faceted narrative. Vogue.com's review states:
'This season, while most designers scamper to redefine yet another bygone era or perfectly distill the trend of the moment, Lang took time out to create sharp, clean and timeless clothes. [...] As if to stress the validity and timelessness of his practical philosophy, Lang made sure to open the show with his most recognizable classics—super-sharp pants and suits, street-smart coats and transparent tops. The results, especially in contrast with the gratuitous ornamentation often seen elsewhere, were more gratifying than ever.'
This coat is a spectacular example of the intricately detailed nature of the collection, confidently combining classic sartorialism and Lang's avant-garde sensibilities. Like most Helmut Lang outerwear, the front has a concealed button closure. A chunky point collar and a curvilinear chest panel crafted from tonal smooth nappa leather add interest to the sophisticated design. This abstract chest detail appeared prominently in Lang's 2000 and 2001 collections (pictured) and is inspired by military garments such as the French Army's F2 jacket; it can be buttoned on the front's exterior or interior to achieve slightly different looks. A detachable long leather belt adorns the coat's interior, acting as a dressier take on the designer's iconic bondage straps. The fabric is a luxurious cotton in a fine twill weave with a slightly lustrous finish.
Besides its distinctive appearance, the coat features an abundance of interesting details. The shoulders feature the collection's signature darted raglan construction, which achieves a completely unique appearance and ease of movement. The upper back features an additional layer with military-inspired box-pleated edges that gives subtle volume to the narrow straight silhouette. There is also a single vent that secures with a button. The interior is fully lined in gold viscose sateen that feels silky and pleasant to touch. There are two interior pockets, the left of which is slit-shaped for easier access. It should also be noted that the darted construction of the shell is echoed in the panels of the lining, achieving a better fit with less fabric excess. The leather belt has a buttoned tab that allows it to secure to the coat.
Crafted with painstaking attention to detail, this directional coat is a true masterpiece from Lang's most sophisticated period as a designer. Groundbreaking yet classic, it serves as a proud reminder of Helmut Lang's enduringly relevant vision. From the avant-garde to the high street, numerous designers have appropriated Lang's work while failing to capture the substance of his vision. In our view, this makes his original work even more enticing.