Size 46: Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Raf Simons frayed sleeveless shirt from S/S 2000 'Summa Cum Laude'. In excellent used condition with minor stain on left shoulder. Made in Belgium.
For S/S 2000, Raf Simons sought inspiration in two contrasting depictions of youth. On the one hand were the members of MENSA, an international high IQ society: Their influence was seen in sweater-and-shirt looks, inoffensive colours and 'nerdy' athletic blousons. On the other hand there was Gabba, a subgenre of hardcore techno popular in Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands. Simons paid a nonchalant tribute to ravers through the collection's distinctive oversized military outerwear, sleeveless tops and baggy trousers. The result was a hybrid look that combined subculture-inspired streetwear with the aesthetic austerity often found in academia.
Out of the garments that epitomise Simons's paradigm-shifting early years, the sleeveless shirt stands out as one of the most iconic. Although traditionally crafted, Raf's shirts were narrower, shorter and the sleeves were cut out. Much like the sleeveless Chesterfield coats from the same period, the armholes were unfinished with frayed raw edges. The working class associations of the shirt are dispelled, and its new proportions remind us of the skinny sleeveless tops worn by European punks and clubbers.
The piece is crafted from a fine cotton poplin fabric. The material's crisp texture and light blue hue are instantly evocative of typical office shirts. The structured point collar adds a further element of subversive formality. The waist-length hem features a pronounced curve with shorter sides, while the back is finished with long darts that give shape to the form-fitting silhouette. All buttons are realised in genuine mother of pearl.
A great example of the transgressive nature of Simons's 90s work, this rare shirt exemplifies the subcultural aggression underpinned by sharp tailoring that characterises the Belgian designer. Strongly recommended.
