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1999 Strapped Military T-Shirt with Tape Applications

Helmut Lang

1999 Strapped Military T-Shirt with Tape Applications


Size M (oversize): Best for any size between an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS and an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M. It could also be worn oversize by women.

Helmut Lang bondage long-sleeve T-shirt with strap details from A/W 1999-2000. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most coveted and groundbreaking seasons. The collection was the designer's most ambitious to date and marks the label's most financially successful period, during which Prada acquired a majority share. Unprecedented in both detail and range, the collection presented a variety of iconic designs that are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Since then, many of these pieces have acquired grail status among Helmut Lang connoisseurs as well as more recent admirers. Their distinctive aesthetic paid tribute to an eclectic range of workwear garments including astronaut uniforms, protective garments for firefighters and motorcyclists, as well as paramilitary police forces' ballistic equipment. Combining these influences with his idiosyncratic touch, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of contemporary designers and stylists. 

Aggressively styled and intricately constructed, this T-shirt is one of the collection's most distinctive basics. Designed for both men and women, the piece is characterised by thick herringbone cotton tape that decorates the shoulders and arms. Rectangular patches of cotton poplin on the chest and elbows add further detail and give the piece a militaristic edge. These details are dark grey, pleasantly complementing the top's vintage black colour. A similar design for women can be seen in the Met Museum's permanent collection.

The piece has an oversized silhouette with raglan shoulders and a boxy waist-length torso. As seen on many Helmut Lang basics from this period, the side seams spiral towards the left to enhance the top's drape when it is worn. Unlike typical raglan shapes, the shoulders have a curvilinear construction that acts as another demonstration of Lang's typical attention to detail. The fabric is medium-weight cotton jersey with a soft texture and some stretch that has been washed to achieve a brushed texture with a slightly aged look. The crew neckline is finished with ribbed trim. 

Combining Helmut Lang's sophisticated approach with cutting-edge details, this exceptionally rare top must have been rather out-of-this-world when presented in 1998. Since then, one of Lang's biggest achievements is that his designs from 10 and 20 years ago remain pioneering and timelessly relevant.

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