1999 Merino Sheep Fur 'Brasseur' Coat
IT 40: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or a UK 10/US 8.
Burberry Prorsum 'Brasseur' sheepskin coat from A/W 1999-2000. In brand new condition without tags; plastic tag connector still attached. Made in Italy. RRP: £1780
1998 is a special chapter of Burberry's history as the first year it showcased the now-renown Prorsum mainline. Under the direction of the excellent Roberto Menichetti, the brand radically transformed from a stale middle-class clothier to the luxury powerhouse that it is today. Menichetti's first steps were subtle yet firm; changing the identity of a century-old enterprise requires a lot of careful consideration. This beautiful piece demonstrates his nuanced approach; a minimalist design devoid of ornamentation with an elegant slim cut, executed in the finest Merino sheep fur. Deceptively simple, visually resolute and supremely elegant.
The coat's exterior features a soft suede finish, while the interior features luscious fur in a beautiful grey/black melange hue. Like all traditionally made fur products, the leather features its own fur rather than being lined. Despite its substantial feel and warmth, the coat is actually very comfortable, lightweight and drapes wonderfully. Menichetti's characteristic narrow fit and subtle detailing make for a modern classic and definitely set this apart from ordinary fur coats. The coat features an elegant trench-style collar that can stand-up to reveal its fur underside, slim elongated sleeves and a fitted cut that follows the lines of the body. Further trench-inspired detailing, such as the hook-and-eye closure of the neck and a buttoned vent on the back remind us of the coat's design's origins.
Upon a closer inspection, it becomes evident that no compromises have been made in the coat's construction. The front closes with chunky genuine buffalo horn buttons that are backed by a small button on the interior. This ensures that they will never come off, while maintaining the structure of the precious shearling material. All seams are perfectly executed, and this is beautifully demonstrated in the geometrical shapes created by the coat's paneled construction. While many edges appear to be left raw, a barely noticeable topstitch prevents them from fraying and stretching.
Overall, it is clear that a lot of care has been taken to create a modern classic that will last for decades while maintaining a timelessly elegant aesthetic. This is a rare opportunity to acquire a beautiful piece from a very early stage of Burberry Prorsum's luxurious history.