1999 Heavy Moleskin Cotton Tailored Biker Coat
IT 50 - 40 Chest - M: Can also fit a slim IT 52 - 42 Chest - S.
Helmut Lang biker coat from A/W 1999-2000. In excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy. RRP: $1440 (£865)
A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons, whose directional pieces are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. These have ranged from household names like Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière, Balmain's Christophe Decarnin and Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey to avant-garde pioneers like Raf Simons and Rick Owens. Being the collection's signature pieces, biker-inspired garments were worn by both men and women in many runway looks. This coat demonstrates a more sober take on the collection theme that combines the iconic biker design with the sharp tailoring of Lang's classic Chesterfield coat.
The coat has a sharp cut with defined shoulders and a fitted body. It should be noted that both runway looks show this piece worn oversized. The front closes with a concealed zipper and buttons, leading to a small stand-up collar with a buttoned tab. Biker-inspired top stitching adorns the reinforced elbows, while the cuffs are finished with chunky diagonal zippers. The sleeves have an engineered construction that follows the shape of the arms, creating an aggressive silhouette while allowing for easy movement. The bold silhouette is strongly complemented by the thick moleskin cotton fabric: One of Helmut Lang's signature outerwear materials, this substantial fabric has a dense twill weave with a sheared surface. This results in a fabric that is warm and hard-wearing while maintaining a soft texture that ages wonderfully over time. Furthermore, its heavy weight gives the coat a strongly structured drape that complements the coat's precise aesthetic.
Needless to say, the construction of this piece is excellent: On the sides, diagonal darts enhance the slim cut with their edges perfectly aligning with two vertical side pockets. Similarly, the concealed button placket is flawlessly constructed with a separate lining. The interior is mainly unlined, with dense sateen lining the upper back. All exposed seams are expertly bound with sateen tape to protect them from wear, while several parts of the interior are finished by hand. Additional panels on the side featuring rows of buttonholes can be used to attach other underlayer items from the collection. All hardware has an antique gold/gunmetal finish that complements the coat's dark look.
An iconic Helmut Lang outerwear design, this coat captures the A/W 1999 collection's much-imitated aesthetic. Its superb quality, beautiful fabric and directional aesthetic will make it a wardrobe essential that you will reach for again and again.